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73m819. I did find it. Finish this thread for the whole account. Good stuff.

I changed mine this past summer. They looked about like yours, but were leaking onto other parts. The only problem with changing them was that the elbow angles on the aftermarket parts are a little off where they run through a bracket at the rear of the block. Look up my thread on this fix...

CUCVRUS, thanks for straightening me our (pun intended). I added the two rings in this morning- surprisingly it was not raining under my M1009. Just got back from some shopping- big diff. All feels and sounds well. I'll have to tell Doghead, I don't think he reads the TM. SEGOF.

I'll try it in the morning. rain, rain, rain. How does it provide centering? I'm not seeing it- I see the rings, just don't get what/how they do it.

:doh: Don't tell me that now. I didn't think it mattered. I put the inside snap rings both on the driveline, but because the caps are held in place with the strap at the differntial, I didn't see the point of installing the snap rings on the remaining caps that nest in the differential yoke...

Still getting vibration. The noise issue cleared up, but I may have installed the shaft 180 degrees out. Would that do it?O therwise I did bend the yoke ear a smidge- which will be a rebalance. Q: Could I get one from a standard wrecking yard K5?

Updated. I used a MAPP torch on the cap and trunion of the u-joint. The plastic softened and oozed out like a snake. My problem was that the inner C-rings were still in place. :doh: After I pulled them free, everything went smooth. I had the driveline back in the truck in five minutes. 41...

Drock, duly noted. Holy smokes what a putz I am. I forgot to take out the C-rings on these two sides. The inner type. Pulled them off and everything comes right out. So embarrassing. Thanks for all your help.

Drock, My question is, are these pins responsible for keeping the u-joint from being removed? Do I have to pull these pins out to get the u-joint out?

Pulled the driveline this morning. it was loose the bearings seem toasted. One cap lip broken. Replacing now, but having troubles with removing the U-Joint from the driveline.

What is this on the U-Joint? I am having trouble removing the u-joint from the driveline. I used a large socket to pound the yoke housing down around the cap, but it's not budging. These little things on either side look like a roll pin end. I remember some GM models use a nylon tube to keep...

Started two days ago. Kind of a randon noise from under the M1009. I checked it when I got home didn't find anything. Yesterday it started sounding like a pice of wire had wrapped around the turning rear wheels, or driveline- it was definitely from the rear near the center of the axle maybe. I...

In the last four years- since I've owned it: Transmission filters, fluids pick-up tube seals. Oil and B6 filters, New OEM fuel filters, Added sound deadner to doors, tailgate, cargo panels, new glow plugs, new injectors, and hoses. New belts and hoses. New heater core and hoses. New Radiator...

I changed out my NAPA Heater Core for the OEM it replaced 3 years ago. You don't need many tools: Flat/Phillips screwdrivers (MED), 7mm deep socket, 7/16" deep socket, 9/16" socket, long extension (Taller than seat height), socket ratchet, headlamp. I tore my liner behind the heater...

I've had good luck using SEM liner kits. They take paint to tint them well. I used the Gillespie 383 when I shot my first liner and it worked so well that I used the same liner for my M-416 trailer. If you like it a little gritty, add some.

I have to smog my M1009, do you? I have never had to do it before. Last registration at DMV, the guy gave me an exempt form. He told me to check either: 1. I live outside of the smog area. 2. I have a GVW of over 8500lbs. I had already paid, and he gave me my receipt as I filled the form out...

I think you can work with 3/8" foam. You may have to layer it so it will not "just fit", but will really exploit the area in which it goes. I was going to add foam. I have a nice thick piece of polyethylene to work with. But I have my old core fresh from the radiator shop waiting to be put back...

OK, I found it with the syntetics. Thanks, now if I can just find the winter aire, the guys at Otto's Home said they were getting it in tomorrow.

When I put the Spectra core in, it came with a foam sleeve, I didn't even consider it was needed for the installation. Do they include directions for using the foam? They should. I've since had my ORIGINAL Copper brass heater Core into the radiator shop. The fellow assured me that it out to run...

I just got back from the parts store. I didn't see ANY 5W40. Should I really switch to a winter oil- is there even such a thing?