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Congrats on your 803 and welcome....

Glockfan - Are you settled in Utah yet ???

Thanx NATCAD. I have a 48 x 56 shop filled to the gills.....The more room you have the more stuff you collect..

Here ya go- mini electric range - $50

Good point because often people use rubber pads between genset and trailer for vibration.....In that case a ground wire between the genset and trailer is necessary....

Not a fan of the PTO generators. Ties up your tractor if you need it for snow removal, trees down etc....

It's that time of year-time to get the hardware cloth....

Nice job Haoleb, money well spent....

What is meant by "Its no closer than the internal tank" ????

Tongue weight will be heavy with an extra 600 pounds.

Glad it wasn't as bad as you thought initially....

Use both, tape with dope over the tape...

Guy - You are far from dumb, lazy etc. I'm impressed with your knowledge and willingness to help others...

There may be something to the warm fuel pump. When they go bad they will work fine till they get hot, then they quit. Cool off and they work again till hot etc. etc.

How did you make it ?? Looks good.

You ran it wild with new oriole - there's your trouble...

Great job Triton. Looks like tight clearance for the socket to fit the nut but obviously it fit ok. Thanx for posting. I would have been tempted to change the other one while it was all apart.

Why such a long exhaust run ? Looks like you could have turned it down towards the ground outside the building for a couple feet. Just curious. Good luck

You don't have to remove the tank. You could run a piece of wire up through the fuel drain hole to the filler neck and slip the bulkhead fitting onto the wire and it will slide down the wire to the drain hole. Easier said than done but doable for sure. I believe you can reach the return line...

The fuel drain well nut will definitely leak when it dry rots, I would change them both at the same time. There are two, one on the top for return line and one on the side(fuel drain).