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I agree. I think that in my experience Generac seems to be pretty parsimonious in their designs, subject to longevity design limitations.

Love type W cable! It is great material. Good luck with storm! I'm not sure if that means grid or no grid for you. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Ask Generac?

Have you ever seen it run without black smoke? I.e. could an oil seal be missing on a valve?

Bypassing the lines is a quick and dirty way to rule out a few things. FWIW: The three studs holding the pump on can't take a lot of torque. They need to be tight, but don't wail on them when you put together again. All the best, 2Pbfeet

While "When you have a hammer, every problem looks like a nail....", I do think that the issue sounds like an air leak or a bad IP. While you are waiting, I would replace as much of the low pressure line as you can, and while you do that, look for any dirt, hair, scratches, cracks, anything that...

I highly doubt it. Nice thought. That is on the mechanical side of the pump. If 17 were leaking and the pump internals were bad, perhaps, but then you would probably be getting fuel in your oil. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Try pumping out of the main tank with the aux pump.

Sounds like fun. The VFD pump controller will make life easier for your generator. As a general rule, I would suggest line reactors on the 3 phase side (if it is 3 phase), and some extra toroids or an EMI snubber on the input side. (E.g. something like this one 20A@240V)...

Offshore oil rigs? What are your anticipated loads at home? Peak kW? kWh/day? Are you thinking this is post hurricane, or off-grid? I think that the existing '803A waveforms are about as good as it gets in my opinion. One thing I would point out that I am sure that you know is that diesel...

Are you sure that the float moves freely and isn't binding in the tank? If there is residue (gunk) on the sender it may not work well. A little carb cleaner goes a long way. I think that it is always worth checking the gauge values while moving the float outside of the tank and making sure that...

On these engines, the yoke (fork) on the governor might not be holding the adjustment pin on the pump, but that's about it. It is always worth checking the observation slot under the small plate below the pump to double check that the pin is in the fork. I know of others who have had the...

Thanks, that explanation makes sense to me. Binding, hard grease, gunk in the starter, partial short in the winding (water?), corroded solenoid, poor battery / starter connections or a low battery are all possibilities that I would consider...

I'm just grasping at straws for what else might be causing overfueling / reduced air. Generally, these are simple, rock solid engines, so when you get it running, it ought to be very reliable. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Dumb question, but are you sure that the intake is completely open and there isn't something whacko like shop rag or something stuck in the intake?

Can you help me out here? I am having trouble understanding "just freewheels". When you write "engages fully", do you mean that the pinion gear is all the way into the teeth of flywheel? Or just that it moves to the flywheel? All the best, 2Pbfeet

Sorry to hear that you are still having issues. I feel your pain. As I mentioned earlier, I had a basically unnoticeable air leak on the inlet to the IP that gave me very similar overfueling grief. And, yes, I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out what the issue was, too. The only fix was...

That's a bummer to put it mildly. Alternators aren't exactly rocket science devices.

I would point out that the Yanmar L70 has a specification of a 19:1 compression ratio, so that might be an ideal value rather than an expected number. (19+1 atmospheres=294psia) I would call anything over 275psi good. All the best, 2Pbfeet

My $0.02 would be to buy the Harbor Freight tester and a cheap Yanmar clone injector, and pull the insides. I would not want to waste a known good Yanmar injector on a compression tester, but that's me. YMMV...