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I got the time to head out and put the pressure washer together for a functional test with mixed results.
The engine needed a valve adjustment, and a new recoil assembly. I needed some keystock, and some mounting bolts to get the pump together, followed by rounding up a gun, wand and hose...
For initial testing a toggle switch would work.
I want to see the spray pattern on the nozzles at various pressures before they go in the trucks.
PsychBob, you're about a month ahead of me on your build. I can't wait to see pictures so I can steal mounting ideas.:beer:
I'm sad to hear they upgraded. Back when I was slinging parts at a Freightliner dealership, I used to pull Grote and Peterson "sealed" lights apart from time to time. Some weren't even glued that well and could be pried apart with a screwdriver.
You have done your homework from the sounds of it.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/69241-removing-rebuilding-reinstalling-hydraulic-head.html
This is the best thread I have found for detail HH pictures and issues.
It sounds like she lost the button, then lost prime at least. It might be...
#8 has me more concerned than #10...
What I'm getting is, the button fell off the HH, and there seems to be rust inside the head on ports 6 and 2... but you tested port 6 and got fuel out of it at the injector..
Am I reading that right?
JB Weld to the rescue!
Honestly, I would start looking for a take off HH and read up on the rebuild process and swap this thing out ASAP. Even if the JB holds, that fracture was caused by something you can't see without disassembly. You might be able to TIG it and save the head body, but if it...
Just got off the horn with a supplier for media... Armex at least... for my 64 Fairlane. They have all the various types in the Armex line for $.45-$.58 per lb.
Now I just need a source I can trust for silica sand. I'm debating trying to source "masonry sand" in a 30-60 mesh in a dried/graded...
By the way. I was thinking about your issues with the fan biting water and jumping into the radiator.
Rather than trying to adapt a clutch on the fan or some actuator on the belt, why not just use a smooth ring of hard steel in-between the radiator and the fan? If the fan does flex forward, it...
Major Math Error Found!!!!
I was computing to 1000 degrees CENTIGRADE not FAHRENHEIT of output steam. Our 1000-1100 degree EGT goal is F. So, I need to adjust the total amount of cooling down by about 450 degrees of steam heat per cc of injected water. So minus 1400j heat energy absorbed per...
For testing purposes, we could just run it with a toggle switch or even a hand valve in the cab while we watched the egt/drove.
Also, I would double check the draw of any solenoid valve and the amp rating of the switch circuit on that gauge. We might need a relay.
Again... we can make a very complicated and perfectly modulated system.... but why do we need to? We are not metering fuel, or playing with the fuel air mix AT ALL. All we are doing is sucking heat out of the engine and making some steam.
Again, 3.1gpm out of that nozzle at 40psi up to 5gpm at...
Makes sense.
The nozzles will have to be tested anyway. I'm confident we can get adequate atomization with water at 90+psi injection pressure and a decent industrial nozzle.
Droplet size doesn't actually matter as much for us so long as we get even water to each cylinder. We are not burning...