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Like anything. Fix the problem that is causing the failure. Don't redesign the relay so you can crank the engine longer and harder on weak battery's. I had Fords solenoids stuck also. The hammer worked best in a pinch. I just like to NOT cut wiring harnesses and have been doing reverse...
I don't think a CUCV has a neutral safety switch. The stock CUCV has a switch at the base of the steering column for back up lamps only. And the way I see it the column and keyed switch are gated and cut so the key will engage in park and neutral only. I have had a few that would start in drive...
Like saying after I seen a bullet hole in the door of a CUCV M1009 I went full armor on my M1009 and darn if I might get shot when I open the door to get out. The stock relay was great for over 35 years. And now this made it better how? Lots of open positive connections under a fully negative...
I had the 4 leaf on several CUCV pickups. I had a huge commercial grade 8FT Western. It was awesome. It rode firm with little or no bounce. New springs all the way around. I could haul 2 skids of salt and the 8FT Western with no problems. Unfortunately someone fell asleep and ran off the road...
As promised I wanted to post some pictures of the progress. The doors are inside and edge painted and now hung and adjusted. The hood is in Great shape. The adhesive that they used at factory had left loose and someone had applied a Permatex type adhesive to bond the inner and outer structure...
Last night I spent some time working out in the barn on my M1009 project. It may not be much but I did get the door shells hung and adjusted. That was fairly easy as these are the same doors that left the factory on the truck in August of 1983. I always remind myself that this is a 38 year old...
Are you referring to the bridge placard on the bumper or the NATO slave receptacle? CUCV came with a small star 3"on the front bumper centered in the license plate area and a star on the back bumper to the side of the pintle hook. All left the Flint Michigan factory in 3 color camouflage. Every...
https://hillsidecomposites.com/products/metric-washer
Or a hardware store. Also a starter and alternator shop can take all the guesswork out of this job. There is a lot more to rebuilding components to last then replacing a few parts. Good Luck.
Waterborne CARC 2 part. I is easy to spray and cleanup. It takes a lot of stirring and mixing to get the solids from the bottom of the bucket. It is Niles Chemical Paint. I had been using Alkyd Enamel and liked that for ease and clean up. But using the water hose and a wash rag makes a world of...
I may have one. Let me look. I had a few OEM ones that were the Harrison plastic/aluminum and a few copper brass. I may have used them up but I spotted one in a parts hunt last week and want to see if it is a full box or just an empty box. Do you live in Delaware?
Progress was made last night. All the door jams and edges of the main structure, doors and fenders were edge sealed with epoxy sealer. I will post pictures. I am hoping to spray all sealed areas with 383 CARC green after work today. Hoping. No promise but things are looking good.
I have fixed that issue in the past. I used a hole saw and cut into the inside of B pillar where the nut is located and held the nut in place and then just put a plastic cap plug in place to fill the hole. Never noticed it. Good Luck. You can weld it good and strong and adjust it where it needs...
That's the door latch. The hinge bushings and pins must be really bad. Or the door is that poorly adjusted. I would replace the strikers and get a door latch from a donor door. Properly adjusted they do open and close like a newer truck. Good Luck.