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There were 3 injector bodies. Pre-88.5 are long body everything else is short. 1982 had a fine thread injector while all other years used coarse thread. Your CUCV was built as a 1983 model year despite the it's construction year. I think this only matters for the door and vent window parts. If...

Oh yeah, I didn't lift mine. Offset only.

All you need to do is cut the adjusting sleeve near the clamps and take about an inch off the threaded ends of the tie rods.

I second this comment. Every time I've had leaky axle seals or wheel cylinders I've had grabby brakes. In fact, my M1008 has a leaking hub seal and the shoes are nearly worn out on that side while the other side is nearly new.

Paints and plastics are the same. You can polish your BO lenses using the same process that you would use for clear coat. Or, if they are only hazy, wet them with water. If they clear up then they would be a good candidate to apply a clear coat to make them clear again. Use a 2-part clear for...

I like the truck. I'm not taking mine as far but I'm curious about your hidden winch.

One thing to note, you MUST use the Gates belts on these configurations. All others I have tried are too stretchy and loose tension too fast.

I bought new Delphi long bodies for $50 a piece pre COVID. I'm kicking myself for doing it because I had a line nearly chaffed through and replacements are not available for long bodies. I'm also installing a 2004 6.5 engine in the truck so I must convert to short body fuel injector lines.

Woodward EZGen is the gold standard, especially if you want to synchronize. Deep Sea Electronics makes a nice controller. We use those for our fleet. They are programmable to do whatever you need. They do require programming.

Put the piston at TDC before you do this so nothing can fall into the cylinder.

It would. You're basically doing the fuel pump's job with a hand pump. Fluid flows freely through a diaphragm pump (the lift pump) in the normal direction of flow. You can put a hand pump anywhere in the loop and it will do it's thing. With that said, I usually roll the engine on the starter...

The best place would be to put it in line between the fuel filter inlet and the lift pump. You can use the mighty vac as a pressure pump to circulate fuel up to the injection pump.

The "civilian solenoid" was probably a starter solenoid. They have two load terminals, a + coil terminal, and a ballast resistor bypass terminal. The case is grounded. If you install one of these it will fry your controller. The correct solenoid is just that, a general purpose solenoid. The two...

I use Diamond Diesel at my job. I was mostly sending them Denso common rail pumps. I never noticed any difference between their reman units and new OEM. They use OEM parts. With that said, I don't know what they charge for a DB2. I think it may be $850. Worth a look. They sold me a seal kit to...

Stainless steel will still bleed rust when installed in wood. They are sensitive to crevice corrosion. You'll want silicon bronze or monel screws for best life. The new generation of coated construction screws are pretty good as well.

Generators are used for typically hotel stuffs such as lights and air conditioning. There are also a few pumps. Our sets are large because they also provide power for the winches. Our boats have 75 horsepower electric winches and up to 100 horsepower hydraulic winches.

I'm not a military guy, I just have a CUCV. I do operate a fleet of tug boats with 99-150KW generator sets. I have non-specific experience. The rectifier rings should easily tolerate 1800 and 3600 rpm conditions. What rpm do these MEP sets operate at? I've been assuming 1800 like most commercial...

The oil ring mistake most make is that the ends of the expander spring must butt. They must not overlap. The gap location is unimportant.

If you buy Benjamin Moore paint, ask them to cross "US Government" for the brand. You can use the FS numbers from there. Perfect match. Other manufacturers may be the same. The door is 1986 CARC, the fender is Aura.

I just assembled my 6.5 with the Lucas assembly lube. I don't mind the stickiness but every time I walk in the garage that dang bottle is on its side, leaking. I always used the Lubriplate stuff from work because I end up with cases of it after an overhaul but we've been buying mostly new...