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Feed it to the chickens!! Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I gotta ask if you checked how much start up amps your ac takes. Unless they're under 2 ton they probably pull 50 amps on start up. Have your electrician friend stop over quick and test it. Some have the start up amps on the panel that covers the switches. Unless you're watching the load meter...

Yup! It won't charge the battery...I'd put a trickle charger on it of it'll sit for a long time though. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

The entire blazer is like that. Looks better than new. What welder and wire size are you using? I've found using the 035 wire with a touch volts welds body panels pretty well with not so perfect hot spots. I have a 220 volt welder that is miles ahead of the 110 miller I have doing body welding...

Yes you can do it by just taking the fan shroud out. Makes it easier if you pop the fan off too. When you get the damper make sure you get the spacer with it. Get an installer tool as well. Makes it very easy to get it all done. Front seal replacement time as well. Sent from my SM-S906U using...

Surplus store in Wrightsville pa has them still. Bought a few not long ago. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Are you looking for the little boot that goes over it? I don't think they make them anymore but I've used one off a shock that I bought online. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Lol use the air bags as a helper. Install them with the springs. There's a kit for it out there. Mounts on the axle up to the frame. Be easier to set the control with the amount of pressure put in them than a sway bar. Can let the air out on the trail and air them back up off. I got some bike...

I looked at a spare engine I have it's a 6x1 thread. I think the bottom thread is standard though. Such a weird thread combo. I had a few bad studs and put nuts and extra washers on them to get new thread on the nut. The wing nuts don't have much thread on them. I have several stripped wing nuts...

I need the little one that holds the lock bar to the lock. I haven't been able to find that yet. I'll hunt more! Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I assume you took all that stuff out of that bin and separated them all in that box. I got another one for you...the push clip that holds the bar on the outside door lock. Had one go on a flying trip in the yard. That window looks perfect! Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

If you jump in the tm you can find the gm part number. I found a few not long ago on ebay. I think the thread is 8x1.25 though...can use a washer and nut. Take the stud out and hit the hardware store. I'm not sure how you buy stuff over there. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

This is the resistor. Take the wire off the right side and bolt it to the firewall connector if it goes bad. Did you find the wire going to the head? That head light ground won't support cranking the engine long. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I had bad connections there a while back and went nuts doing correct crimp and shrink wrap. I don't like to do that stuff 2x. I think the diode does the charging system...not 100% on that. The resistor is the big twin cylinder thing you took off the firewall. They do work...but if they fail it...

Take the output wire off the resistor and hook it up to the small end of the firewall 12 volt connection. That resistor fail and give the glows 24 volts plus they do get very hot. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Looking at the second Pic changes things. I didn't know you had the resistor hooked up still. Most get bypassed. I'll take pic. In a minute Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Ok you hit the only thing I can think of at smoke at the back of the engine with good batteries. The main ground to the block should be right off the firewall 24 volt connections to a intake stud on the rear of the engine. You either have a bad connection or a bad cable. Repair that and see what...

Could absolutely to a heim joint...just cut it down a smidge more to make threads. I haven't had one pitted before since there's only power steering fluid in there...the output seal you could run stones in to hone it...the input are to small. Really shouldn't need to hone the output though since...

Input shaft hooks to the brake pedal. They can be all over the place on length. The eyelit on that end needs cut off to get that shaft out of the rear of the booster...there's 2 lip style seal that seal that side of the booster. They are on that shaft. Then the eyelit gets welded back on...add a...

Glad you found where it's coming from. Sounds like a mess. I have kits for those but being a civi and a 87 I'm not sure about sizes. I have one good booster that I'd have to dig out to see what the output piston size is though. I've seen several diameters of those. The input shaft length is...