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What ?!?! Your driving without a working seatbelt ? :shock:

That really sucks Marcus ! I had something similar happen to my father and me about 30 years ago now. We where on the freeway when a sudden downpour caused a major accident. We where forced to make a panic stop. Thankfully we came to a complete stop without hitting anyone, but the guy behind me...

All the IHC Scouts had front mounted shackles. Yes they handled a bit wonky at times, but off road they where great !

Who makes them ? and do they have the Marines ? Thanks.

Well the question is how long will the driveline be ? If it's over 80" then go with a two piece driveline with carrier bearing. Actually 80" is pushing it, but I believe that is the max allowed.

Besides doing the Caster Angle mod, you should also check your "Toe-In" . On all Radials you should run "0" toe-in, or as close as possible.

Glad to hear it works !

Well not totally, but it fits and works fine. There is a small gap on the flange, but unless your going swimming with the truck it should not matter. You can make your own gasket and using a little RTV seal this gap. Beyond that it works fine. Oh, you might have to "clock" the mounting flange to...

I was thinking that could be your problem. Like I mentioned earlier, I had several pumps that had the valve totally stuck due to crappy gummy junk in there. One was actually rusted in place. On all the Hydraulic Heads I rebuilt, I put them in the sand-blast cabinet and using ground up walnut...

I should clarify a bit. The filter box is taller and has a slight taper to it. I didn't take into account this difference when I cut my panel so it looks a little funny. I had to "hammer" my hood to get clearance. You can see this where the panel meets the filter unit.

Totally agree here. You will get only very small amounts of condensation if any at all driving the truck. Half a cup is a lot of water.

I am aware of the term "borrow" . I just was confused since that is the stock master cylinder for the deuce. I can see with that different top how it might have looked like a different master cylinder though.

Before you trash the Hydraulic Head I would tear it down completely. Clean it thoroughly, especially the pressure valve. Then see if it works. On several that I rebuilt they had severe "gummy deposits" on the pressure valves and in the small passages. Of course if the plunger is worn-out then...

The relay mounted on the block can get "heat soaked" pretty fast. I remounted mine on the frame rail just ahead of the starter. I have had no problems starting since.

That is so easy to fix. Just a little pulling on the brush guard and a little touch-up paint on the fender ! Then probably replace a "tie-rod end" and an alignment and your golden !

That's exactly what I did with mine. I didn't get it totally even with the hood though. I forgot that the panel is "tapered" and just cut it straight. It works fine though, just a larger gap by the filter housing.

A $159.40 for a brand new starter ! That is a screaming deal !

I've had no problems with mine at all. It really free's up space being out there too. I added a extra cab heater there on mine, plus my towing control box.

Sounds fun ! Better to do it now while your still young and healthy enough to handle it.

As long as it's a 39MT, 24Volt, CW rotation, with 12 teeth it should work fine. They are mainly used in Cummins Engines. That's a good price too.