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I'd check it with a known good master gauge before replacing parts. Also, since it's older it might not tolerate synthetic lube. Try going to a 20w50 petrolium based oil

Or you can have them made up for about the same price. Just take a sample to the hose guy and they'll pump them out toot sweet and they'll be new and serialized.

Ahh, yes it was!

Wait, in your first post you said it goes to 2500 sitting still. Governor break for the LDT is around 2750-2800. Check your throttle linkage/arm to make sure it's getting full throttle.

Drop the pan and pressurize the cooling system. If it's a cooler, it will leak coolant between the mains an crank, If it's a liner, it'll come from between the piston and liner. if the freeze plugs in the head are leaking, you'll see it dripping/running from the push tube cavity. Is the coolant...

Yeah, NONE. Ditch the big cool tires. Wait 'till you have a front blow out. Those SUCK! I think 73M819 can attest to that. A front failure in a stock deuce has a pucker factor of 25+, can't imagine what a big asz tire like that would feel like. 2cents

Yours is easy. There is a ball in the throttle shaft, some are plastic, some are metal. Drill it out...BE CAREFUL!!! if you let the drill push through the ball it will turn the screw behind it into a position that will make the truck almost un driveable!!...Take the ball out of the shaft, I like...

The bow corners attach to the backs of the troop seats.

How true! Well except for the old part.

Set it by ear. start at 2, leave the dist. loose, drive it and advance the timing 'till it starts to ping, back it off and lock it down. If you are gonna haul things, make sure you put a load in the truck when you do this.

I remember reading about this.

Lawyers are needed first...they don't work for free though. Any Layers out there in MV land?

Under a load, all the cylinders run about the same. The center two have the highest temp readings due to the manifold converging there.

None of the parts in the center housing are aluminum in the turbo. The bushings are bronze.

One of the cylinders could have taken a crap. Usually what is in the pan consists of piston parts...some times, sometimes just the rod breaks, the piston and top half of the rod stays in the cylinder...rod pieces parts, maybe bushing parts. But the drain on a multi is small. It might be worth it...

You have a single or double cylinder air compressor?

The rod is the last place to get oiled. If the main feeding the rod is damaged, there is a good chance that the rod bearing is damaged worse than the main. If it were mine, I'd do a bearing inspection first....drop them down one at a time and have a look see. Remember, mains wear the bottom...

Yup, you can throw parts together and things will work just not correctly.

Don't drop/loosen all the mains at the same time unless you want to be doing front and rear main seals. you can drop all down but 3 or 4, roll the new shell in, torque them up then do the last one. Take the belts off or just loosen them, it helps when doing #1 main Also, before you go and buy...

OR, order the pieces you need from DynaFlex and make the pipe/replacement section yourself. Dynaflex Products