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That is an awesome point. Didn't even think that far. I know what I will be doing this weekend. Thanks RWH

All, last night we took the M1123 back out for a test drive after adjusting the tie rod ends. It ran great. Until.... ... 10 miles into the drive, we suddenly had ATF squirting into the cab from one of the holes in the deck coming from underneath. We pulled over and found a flexible...

That sounds about right... I think the fenders are all the same, as far as space to the top, couldn't help. I am topless. I measured to the top of the pillar thou.

I don't have an 1165A1, but the fender on my M1123 is 49"x16" (should be the same for all?) and height to the top of the roof line is 24". Sorry if it doesn't help, but I couldn't let you sit out there without any answers :( Good luck

That is the only way it’s possible… the threads on the ends were flawless. And i was able to unscrew them, so the rod sleeves must be rethreaded by clamping down that much. I didn’t separate them all the way to inspect the inside of the sleeves. Maybe when the new tie rods ever come in, I will.

I love the 32' above sea level indication... :ROFLMAO::LOL::cool::p My house is at 3,850. Does it flood a lot where you live?

I'm up a bit earlier today to get a start on the workday, just taking a minute to reflect on the weirdness and Here is the difference between my home setup up (for the weekend mechanic-warrior) and the work shop set up. How would one get a r/h threaded piece in a l/h threaded pipe? I had to...

Hey all, late posting tonight, but good news. I did get them lose, adjusted and reinstalled. Dieselmeister, you are correct, if I had the right torch all the paint would have been burnt off. I only had the propane and Butane bottle that one uses for copper pipe soldering. It barely got stuff...

Hey all, We had the M1123 out for a drive for the very first time yesterday, put about 30 miles on it (after getting Progressive insurance confirmed, great rate BTW). The truck drove great and better than we expected, but steering was a b*tch. The tires squealed like I was driving through a...

No harm done, don't apologize if you don't understand the issue. Maybe in the circles you are used to, or with really good friends, great. But in a forum where others want to offer help and advice and you're the new guy, read the room first before you end your sentence with "Chill bro". Not...

I've bought a M1123, Marine truck from Yermo in March. Had it delivered in May and just got the SF97. It did not read "Off Road Only", and I took it to the local Treasurers' Office, and received license plates and registration, no problem. The title will be in the mail in 4 to 6 weeks. No issues...

I believe you have the privilege of getting free advice and personal opinions from years and years of experience here. No reason to start being rude, especially if you are counting on getting more of the before mentioned. Start recognizing your standing amongst others and think how to respond...

Just out of curiosity and because I am a noob, how often does one need to take a T-case out? And what for? Is this something I should prepare myself for in the future (removing the T-case, not the access hole)? Thanks!

Hmmmm, this would give me pause to think. Why did you have to use the jumper box? Are the batteries draining, or bad? Do you have a parasitic drain? Whichever it is, I would concentrate getting the issue fixed rather than spending hundreds of $$ on that pack and having to rely on it.

Like I said, the typical wheel chair we issued to patient Veterans at the VA has two 24 volt, 400 watt drive motors and some LED lighting. Some more advanced chairs have a sit to stand feature that raises the Veteran to eye level, those electrical actuators would have anywhere from 120 to 200...

That is a 24 V power connector to some accessory. I wouldn't use it for jump starting as it's not rated for that amperage. If you ever look at power wheelchairs, they have the same connectors (and yes, they are all 24 volt power chairs, industry standard). But only to supply power to run 24 volt...

Makes a ton of sense. Good to know it is probably a real tool. Still missing manufacturers ID.

Hmmmm, I imagine it's easy to counterfeit a tool like that and slap a label on it with the NSN and a barcode. There are no other markings on my tool, such as a manufacturer name, part number or anything else. I've seen thousand of tools used in the military, they all just have a different feel...

I'll try to weld a bracket between the two side to keep it from spreading, or install some reinforcement. Consider doing the same if you want to keep using the tool. I did end up using this method found on YouTube: Not as easy as it looks, but it did work :cool::p:D

I figured that. I messaged the seller, and dropped the words "counterfeit tool". Almost offended, he did refund the money and told me to keep the tool as the shipping wouldn't be worth it. That should tell you something. I don't know if it is a counterfeit, but without the bolt it is useless...