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look and see if it even has the TCU present

That one with the white label is supposedly the older/problematic style. The newer one has a yellowish label

That right angle drive unit can be disassembled and probably needs to be cleaned and greased.

That part is integral to the whole front half of the housing and cannot be removed in place. The plastic shell is absolute crap with the structural strength of an ice cream cone. The best fix ive used is to lightly thread a brass barb fitting in slathered with RTV to mimic the original and...

first thing to try is to bypass the temperature switch on the side of the front evaporator unit. just connect the two (438A and 435D) and see if it fires up

No. Must have been somebody else.

Its actually easy to do yourself. Deflate, un-bolt, lift off upper plate, remove old o-ring or valve stem, clean mounting surfaces, lay new o-ring in groove, lay top plate back in place, carefully torque to spec as not to dislodge o-ring. re-inflate. Its made to be able to be done in the field...

Display at an outdoor western bar for military and first responder appreciation night.

Mine measures 40 7/8" so approximately 104 CM to the bottom of the rail

Currently putting together a VIC1 for the front seats

yes Black cable on the right bolted to the frame behind all those wires

That is the underside of the connector housing for the electric lift pump.

that reverse polarity LED bulb from amazon should fix your problem

Im currently running this 15lb that came in plain cardboard military packaging. I was recommended to upgrade to the 16lb and im currently looking for the same NOS Mil. in 16lb

No. We had the batteries hooked up briefly on day one and we didnt find any signs of power to the truck. Flipped the battery switch to on and no signs of life. No gauges, no fuel pump, no lights, no air buzzer. nothing. No clicks or sizzles. no burning smells, nothing. Tried flipping a few...

It will bleed itself with a few hot/cold cycles. Before starting it cold every time, check the coolant overflow bottle and add coolant to the cold full line. It may stay full or take a few times but it should eventually always be at cold full at startup. Make sure you have a new genuine...

The batteries are hooked up properly. I will disconnect the slave receptacle though before proceeding. We installed a new cable from the positive stud to the starter. A new cable between the batteries. The negative cable to frame was in good shape. Four new clamps. this is how the starter...

Good info. Thanks! Where do the two #11s get power from? Do they terminate somewhere or do they go to a wrapped spice in the harness somewhere? I have a significant short (thats melting my negative post) somewhere i need to find before I can hook up the batteries even.

I believe you have the correct flasher unit. Unscrew the connector and make sure the connector is not corroded and that it is not cross threaded (mine was) and seats fully when tightened. Those seco LEDs look shiny chineseum as the blackout signals look molded over and no seal in the back of...

Here the trashed connector in the foreground was labeled 87/106/38. The dirty one to the left was labeled 486/85. Notice the position of the two ribbed receptacles. Here is that wire 486/85 in the foreground and on the left is the frayed #11(ignition?) wire with a ribbed connector that is NOT...