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Could it be unburned fuel from trying to get it cranking, or is it electrical type smoke?

Try hitting a speed bump at about 20 mph and no brakes. You might be able to induce a wobble. Like above, changing the kingpin springs and cups cured by wobble. While I was down there I did add a new stabilizer, but I am 100% confident it was my KP springs.

I'm guessing wheel cylinder.

Drum brakes are annoyingly simple. Odds are that it will immediately become apparent.

I would not touch a CUCV with ether. Ever. Use something much less volatile. Heck, just throw a bunch of diesel down the throat, or use WD40.

That would probably work if you rebuilt your old pump, but I believe a new pump needs to be separately timed. Could be wrong, just an idea.

Is the timing off?

I would execute http://www.colorado.gov/cs/Satellite?c=Document_C&cid=1211966064328&pagename=Revenue-MV%2FDocument_C%2FRMVAddLink and send it to the buyer. Tell him to take that, the SF97, the VIN inspection, emissions (if required in his county/area), the bill of sale, and proof of insurance...

Are you absolutely sure that the truck needs to be in CA to get a title, not register it? I got a deuce from out of state, paid extra for him to obtain a title in that state, he mailed it to me, I got a local VIN verification and weighed it here, took it all down to the DMV with proof of...

How many vehicles have you ever seen used in a crime that vaguely resemble a deuce and a half? It was a funny scrivner's error on the registration. I am 100% positive that nothing other than a few laughs will ever be the result.

I'm an attorney, the vins match perfectly. I don't think I'd have a problem. Plus, the thing is so slow, I couldn't see a reason why I could ever get pulled over.

I recently titled a Deuce. At the DMV she asked what it was, looking at the word Kaiser. I said it's an old jeep. She then asked if it was a pickup truck. Yep. Walking out the door, I opened the envelope for the registration: 1970 KIA. And I'm **** sure my 1028 has never delivered a piece...

Mine's the muther cucker.

Well, you're going to have to come up with a lot more to do over the weekend, because it only takes 2 minutes. As a tip, take a marker and trace around your current striker bolt before removal. Makes your calibration time moving it a hair up or down a lot quicker. And reach around and hold...

An IP costs a lot more than that, but it is symptomatic of your problem.

Step 1: Go to NAPA, ask for a striker bushing on a 84 K30; Step 2: Sorry, Sir, we just have the bolt and bushing; Step 3: How much is it?; Step 4: $14; Step 5: I'll take 2. All you need is a torx bit, and you'll be pulling off robberies on how quiet your doors close.

Striker bolts with plastics sleeves for the win. Such a nice feeling, for such a PITA problem. It's like being in a limo, well ...

Just split the file into 2 pdf's. http://foxyutils.com/splitpdf/

Injector pump?

They all need 12v. What plugs are you running?