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Once you turn off S1 / E-Stop and / or dead crank, does EVERYTHIN continue to operate normally? Fuel pump, gages, panel lights etc? Or do you loose all the DC controls as expected, but the solenoid is still pulled in and engine still running? BTW, your picture is correct, left most "F.T...

On your oil pressure issue, it sounds like you are saying the gage is stuck all the way up ALL the time. Running, OFF, S1 at Start / Run and not running. If so, first check the wiring as Guy said. Also confirm +24 on the I terminal and ground is on the G terminal the S terminal is the sense wire...

" I wanted to keep debris out of the radiator, so I made an aluminum cover that opens and closes in unison with the exhaust flap. Orientation is such that it deflects air away from the exhaust, so it no longer blows in my face when I'm at the control panel." Great idea with the automatic...

Good work! all the spray lube and cleaner in the world is still easier with less damage to you hair from pulling it out, than swapping out that switch, especially if it's the nut and bolt version instead of the extruded thread version! Congrats on fixing it the easy way!

So one thing to consider, this is a single cylinder engine. There is no way that something got into the cylinder and then someone tried to start it and mangled the rod, It's just not going to happen on a 1 lunger wit the pull rope or the electric starter. Something had to get in there quickly...

It's funny ( not really ) that you mention the liquid / air cooled possibility of a bent rod. I had seen the same loss of compression on 1 cylinder of an 803 I had and the cause was a very minor bend in the connecting rod, assumingly from water / coolant in the cylinder. I didn't even bother...

I just went to check out that Speedokote epoxy primer, looks pretty good for the price! If you decide to reduce it, pay no attention to the Zero VOC reducer statement, you can use Acetone or Urethane reducer I use acetone when I want a quicker dry and urethane reducer if it's hot out or if I...

Don't worry about the hours, the meters are not something to rely on anyway as it could have been changed at any any point. The Reset tags don't tell you a whole lot either other than the date it was reset and where. Look at the starter side of the engine. If there is a serialized tag on the...

If you haven't done so already you need to test the circuit to see where it's broken. Start it up and first verify you have 24V on the X terminal of K1 If so, follow the instructions in the TM, it will tell you to manually connect the Y terminal to ground with a jumper. If K1 is good it should...

Using an inhibitor definitely won't hurt anything, but usually sets that look like that either sat outside with the cover off or got wet and stayed wet for a while, somehow! That amount of rust and corrosion doesn't typically happen just from normal humidity etc.

Wow, I was just in Ontario a couple days ago and was happy to be leaving before the "Cold" rolled in.... but it's +2F there right now by according to the internet. I should have stayed longer to enjoy their warm weather! Thermometer here says -8F right now so still better than both of you...

In addition to cleaning, about the only thing you can do is remove a few screws and wires and check to see how the contacts, terminal block and underside of the screw heads look. If the underside of the heads are also corroded you may want to 1 by one 1, clean the terminal block and wire contact...

BTW, if you go that route, you only need about 1/2 the material to do an 002A tank. That kit is plenty to do an 003A tank and I do prefer the clear epoxy as you have shown. The colored epoxy looks nice but is thicker and does not flow out as good. Adding thinner is allowed per the instructions...

Yes, that's the one! Looks like it is back to a reasonable price again!

You can make up some new wires if you get the right size terminal ends and the appropriate crimping tool. I can also look through my spares piles and see if I have a full set of wires available, if you'd like. Step 1 though, make sure you can get the "Nuts" off the pre-heaters. Sometimes they...

Yes, try hard because swapping out that switch is not an easy job by any means!

In the past I have purchased new crankshafts and rod bearings from Yanmar and rebuilt these motors, and yes they are very simple to work on. The last one I ran across the customer choose not to rebuild it since it was out of his budget range.

Hopefully you can get the compression gage rigged up to work for you, as that is a crucial piece of the puzzle. IF you happen to find compression low, something I have seen on several different single cylinder Yanmar model MEP's is that a spun rod bearing could be the cause of a compression...

Agreed, I have had good luck loosening the thru-bolts holding the switch together, get the electrical cleaner sprayed into all the joints and little spaces around the protruding contacts, then exercise the switch aggressively. Hopefully you will be able to get it cleared up with a couple rounds...

The tip size is very dependent on how much you thin your paint and how confident you are in laying down enough but not too much. Behr takes and extremely long time to flash off, so you are better off using a slightly smaller tip to avoid too heavy of a coat, which could result in runs. I tend to...