Search results for query: clutch

Now is as good a time as any to share a little secret to help beef-up this transmission. The two main drums, the front clutch drum and rear clutch drum are not as strong as they could be. In later HydraMatics they fixed this issue. So what am I talking about. Here's a picture of the standard...

...numbers for the 3 roller bearings and they recently came in the mail. So bushings can be made in a machine shop, as can thrustwashers. The clutch plates are sold by Fatsco, except for the ones in the reduction unit. Thankfully those are "Bronze" and usually are in good shape. So the only...

OK here's a little "trick" to help with the apply of the front and rear clutch packs. You have a lathe cut a 1/16" deep ridge on the bottom of the apply piston. Extend it 1/2" outward from the center of the piston. See picture. This allows a faster apply of the clutches since there is already a...

...and the "reduction unit" output shaft. Now back to the piston and the driven cone.) This "driven cone" then slides up on the "reduction unit clutch housing" seen here, and contacts the "stationary cone" which is pressed into the reduction units housing. You can see the friction material in...

...is very different as you can see here. The left housing is a Pontiac and the right is the 303M housing. A major difference is in the 2 main clutches. The pistons use a solid seal ring instead of a rubber "lip seal". I can only guess the military wanted no possibility of clutch failure due to...

...material is coming off the plate too. Anytime friction plates are losing material like this their bad. Also any steels that came out of this clutch pack would be thrown out. I see now I forgot to show you the steels. Well that will be for tomorrow then. Heres some close-up pictures of the...

...seals and bushings and thrust washers and on and on ! All still sealed NOS parts ! It drives me crazy sometimes what I could have had. That M5 oil pan I posted came from there. I only got it for a novelty. Also the "bronze" clutch plates. I better stop, I'm getting seriously depressed right now.

...you oil pan cooler. Also more importantly it will keep small coolant leaks from contaminating the transmission fluid which destroys friction clutch plates. Every oil pan I have taken off has these two holes plugged up. Almost everyone needed "drilling" to remove the crud. Also speaking on...

...removed. The next thing to do is apply pressure to the back of the drum assembly. This allows you to remove the large snap ring holding in the clutch plates. After the snap rings are removed from both drums you will need to give them a good "smack" with a deadblow hammer shown here. The...

...the bottom with a dead blow hammer then attache the crane and smacking the bottom and the output shaft lift off the assembly. The "reverse clutch cone" will just lift out with a little persuasion. At this point I usually remove the oil pan. The bolts can be a little fun removing. Half of...

...the 6 bolts and taking off the "internal gear" and the bronze and steel plates with springs is pretty straight forward. Now your down to the clutch drum assembly. There is a snap ring which needs to come off then the rest of the assembly will come right off. I see I forgot to take pictures...

...of what you'll see ? You spent time with your father, that's great. But your father was not operating the truck properly if he never used the clutch. You cannot blame him though as they didn't have the schools back then. So you learned to drive from your father then. You didn't go to a...

Did you go to the website I posted ? This is "EATON's" site. The manufacturer of the transmission. They say use the clutch ! Go to the site, look at the video's posted and then come back here and tell me why I'm wrong to say "use the clutch" . The "stories" or "MYTHS" about all the truckers...

Evidently you never took EATON/Fuller's advice on how to use their transmissions. No one said you needed to "double clutch" the Deuce transmission. Just use the clutch to shift.

...for a reason. This allows the smooth shifting they are known for. But for all there upgrades the manufacturer still says you are to "Double Clutch" their transmission. Don't believe me ? Than look at this video on "EATON's" wedsite. RT-18 manual transmission | 18-speed transmission| Eaton...

...the gears!" They always were bragging about their skill in shifting the transmission so "smoothly" . Most all professional truckers use the clutch, especially if their split shifting. That is why all big transmissions have a "clutch brake" which acts like a input shaft brake, built in. It's...

...make this noise again do this check. Make sure the park brake is on. Check your transmission oil level. Then start up your truck. Push in the clutch and put the transmission in first gear. With the clutch fully depressed, does the noise get louder or changes ? If so than the throw-out bearing...

...align up. If they don't then you could have bad torque rods or other serious suspension issues. Once the engine is started check the clutch and transmission and transfer-case. Check to make sure your alternator is charging. I also like to have a good cab, so I check for rust and door...

Glad to help. Now about the cone clutch. Yes, they are as hard to find as "hens teeth" . I never saw anyone resurface one as you would also need to resurface the not only the aluminum cone but the housing as well. That would make your clearances a problem. The seal could be changed out to a...

Our Deuce already has a "SAE" adapter for the Spicer transmission. That is how my Allison will adapt to the engine. The problem is the "flywheel" which I have. It was designed to fit the Allison 540 transmission which corresponds to the Allison 1000/2000 transmission. I was going to have my...