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The way I see it is this forum is for putting out crazy ideas and seeing what sticks. Why not? I do own a hmmwv, and have owned and done frame offs and custom fabs (rollcage, bumpers…) on 2 4x4s. I have done legitimate backcountry wheeling with bad ass rigs I built myself. Now I am a middle...

1. Regarding alternator. Game over in an ecv if it poops out regardless of how your fan is powered. 2. I am not impressed with R and D by AM general beyond the original invention which we can all agree is awesome. The geared fan drive is a CV joint with a fan clutch that should have been...

So this set up 6000 cfm per draws 36 amps at 12 volts. Found this auto cool guy but it is 12 volts. I swear I have seen a 24 volt one on his site. If you found a 24 volt and hooked the fans up in series with wires and fuses that could handle the amp draw it might work without decreased poer...

Or double up on this 6000 cfm per for 12,000 cfm. Talk me out of it..

That looks awesome. I have another reason to convert to electric. 1165A1 with geared fan drive. I want to put a differential centering kit in so I only have to carry one cv joint per axle. The geared fan drive hangs so low that I am pretty sure it would be in the way. I figure pull that fan...

I like that. Would be much cheaper also

Imop = in my opinion. I just like the way it sounds. 12 volt world means no jump start from 99.9% of cars on the road. Nothing is draining my batteries but like to be prepared.

Check this out. Harbor freight jump starter thinking about hooking it up to a nato slave cable. Much cheaper than the Noico and imop a must have for the hmmwv in 12 volt world. Any potential harm to the electrical system (1165 a1) through the nato plug?

Yeah I explained the set up at length and that is what they told me. I was ready to throw down 1600 for a pair. I guess I am stuck with Odyssey or sears gold agm. I want a good battery. The amount of time and pain that a dead battery can cause is not worth buying cheap.

I emailed battle born and they replied that they dont have the cold cranking amps for auto use.

That sounds like it may do the trick.

hopefully carry as little weight as possible so the poorly designed weak engine can push my beast with some conviction.

1. Building it is more fun. 2. I would never armor the engine compartment as part of a supported combat movement. This will be getting my family point a to point b with support consisting of a few extra parts and tools. 3. If the alphabet boys are listening, strictly defensive use for me...

Lol. Gotta stop somewhere with the weight limits. I do have level 4 plates for everyone that matters and we will likely have those on if it is that desperate. the armor for me is another layer.

Here is a good resource for estimating weight. Material weight estimator

I should have excluded m855. I think stopping 5.56 non ap/steel core is doable under 1000 pounds though.

I think this thread needs to be started. My goal is to stop 5.56 and pistol rounds for the 4 man cab and engine enclosure. Obviously we have to protect our love ones in the cab but a bullet through the radiator will only allow you to go a few miles (temperature dependent I guess). If the...

I was thinking 6061 T6 because: 1. relative weldability. 2. Less backplate spall than 7075. 3. Avoids galvanic corosion problems from steel. What thickness do you think is ideal? 25 mm seems to be the minimum for ap 7.62 but puts weight per square foot in the same ballpark as ar500. I was...

I am concerned about the carpet also. Marine carpet for boats would work awesome I bet. also concerned that you are concerned…. Maybe I just watched too many A Team episodes as a kid but I am salivating at the idea of building an armored hmmwv. Merica!

Good to know. I assumed way worse. Some smart hmmwv owners on here.