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I just acquired 2 windows for the M973. NSN 2510-01-166-5285.

I sometimes leave it in gear - especially if I expect the light to change to green; leaving it gear allows me to get going faster & avoid the po-po.

You will stall out with it in gear & the clutch pedal pushed in?

The parts you have may have a part # stamped or inked in it. The parts TM will be your best friend in identifying the correct part(s) you need. A crucial piece of info when looking up parts in the TM is know your UOC (usable on code). That code delineates which specific model some parts go to.

Take a close look at the cannon plugs on the light switch and turn signal arm. Make sure no sockets or pins on either the male or female connections are bent or pushed back inside the connector. I’ve also see lighting circuit gremlins pop up due to bare wires and shirts at the trailer receptacle.

I do believe that the light housing mounting bolt holes are grounds to the light separation plates inside the housing. Those bolt holes must be clean and the wire mounting points on the plates must be corrosion free. Same for the ground wire at the light housing as well as all other grounding...

Why won’t it be the exact same size? Is it because the material you got wasn’t big enough - or are you going bigger?

My immediate thought is that someone ran a “new wire@ because they couldn’t figure out the problem with the original circuit. Or, they found an unused hot wire (12 or 24 volts) and tapped in to it to power up something. Have you checked it with a voltmeter?

I have been posting under the 1097 specific thread. I’ve only been hitting it in small amounts. It’s a GP purchase and was not a runner when I bought it. Had to put a starter on, dual voltage regulator, replaced the belts, new thermostat, batteries, need 2 battery cables, new engine oil pan...

Normally I would agree - but, the build fits well in this forum. Perhaps the member could post a highlight of all that was done.

How difficult was it to get that personalized tag?

I have put a vehicle in N prior to stopping but just prior to stopping and going nearly zero miles an hour. I’ve also done it on a flat stretch with no traffic - but as stated it might be problematic to take a gear if the tranny & drive train are at different speeds.

I’m curious if you hear that noise when the clutch is in or out - or both. Noises are funny because they can originate in one place but and through resonation it sounds like it’s coming from a different place. Does the engine spool right up or is there a lag or hesitation? Is there lag or...

I’m torn between installing one or not. I don’t plan on having to take that line off at all once it’s all back together.

Makes sense.

How did your HMMWV look on arrival? Progress?

Installed the new oil pan. Cleaned out the oil pan mounting bolt holes & chased the threads to get RTV out. Need to buy coolant but I reckon I’ll replace the T-stat while the coolant is drained. Will replace the fan clutch, impeller, and shroud as I reassemble. One of the fan clutch hoses...

Finally started on the 1097R1. Removed the hood & radiation & P/S & transmission oil coolers. I need to replace the fan clutch and shroud anyway. GP crunched my engine oil pan up with a forklift when moving it around so I pulled the oil pan off. Let me tell you; the RTV they used could hold...

I’ve been AWOL for some time. Too much going on. Still have the 998 and 1097R1. Have assembled a decent assortment of parts. Still need to source an oil pan gasket for the 6.5 NA. GovPlanet kindly dented my engine oil pan up and I’m not going to take any chances & “send it”. I also need a...

I have TAN 4 man crew cargo area cover kits. 2590-01-629-6008. These kits are designed for the 1165’s but the tarp & bows have the same part #’s as the 998 / 1097 series HMMWV’s. The kits I have include the parts needed to extend off of the 1165 hard top.