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Ok.. Got feedback from the electrician.. I totally missed the fundamental fact that when dividing current from 240V into two 120V legs that the Amperage available on the on the 120V legs doubles (200A @ 240V = 400A @ 120V). I should know better, but my tesla coil building days are more than 20...

Ok, I'll take it. Goes contrary to my experience wiring a house and the addition to mine. I'll run it by my friend that is a retired electrician (he may just call me an idiot ;)).

Did you mean 240V? 10A draw on one leg, 1,200W, since the other leg is 0W. When considering a 200A, 240V service panel, that means that you have 100A available individually to the X and Y hot branches (120V) that have a shared neutral and ground.

Ok, hate to say it but I consulted ChatGPT, according to it my original math was correct (and I do suck at math). Here's what it said: "If you have readings of 19.1 amps on one leg of the 120-volt circuit and 13.3 amps on the other leg, and you're interested in finding the total current on the...

If I was thinking right the data plate on the unit states 26A at 240V. I admit that I suck at math so there may be a grievous error on my part. Still amazing that we can run the entire house no problem with the heat pump and all. Guess that I'll need to try again and start turning on more stuff...

Update.. Finished the wiring for the electrical connection. Moved the unit closer to the house, dumped in the rest of the Seafoam in and filled the tank with fresh road diesel. The house is currently running off the gennie with no issues. Pic of the monitoring panel in the house for load...

Fuse/MOV Mod installed. Time to move it closer to the house, fill the tank, and run it under a good load. I also replaced the big red button while I was at it. On the two that we already use for backup power it has been the first thing that goes south when the temps drop (you have to pull so...

I am most definitely going to obtain and install the mod prior to running it under load.

Last weekend I picked up another MEP-802A with only 45 hours on it. Paid a little more than I would have liked, but prices are going up on everything, and the unit was only about a 1.5 hour drive to reach. The owner that I purchased it from had it for over 10 years, and it spent almost of its...

Circling back on the hardware cloth addition. When covering all vents with it (I'm not concerned with obstruction of the 6"X6" hole on the bottom as it does not seem to be part of the whole cooling plan (or maybe it is, I don't know). My question is whether or not this is something that is going...

On aluminum tape. I actually have rolls of it that are normally used on aircraft, thick and super sticky (I used it to repair a tree limb puncture on our metal roof more than 10 years ago and it is still holding strong). Improvisation right?

Hardware cloth it is, I have a plethora of self tapping sheet metal screws. The bottom may be more problematic as it is bolted down on a cement slab that is under a small lean-to that I would need to disassemble the wall and unbolt the unit to lift it with the tractor forks. But, I have been...

Your diagram was a great help. I found the issue, the fuel cutoff solenoid. After unplugging no more pop. It occurred to me that the last problem that we had was rodents building a nest on the main bus bar in the compartment behind the panel. I took off the top and checked, guess what I found. A...

When I touch the wire to the contact on CB1 there is a pretty nasty arc that reeks of a dead short somewhere. Just occurred to me that I can try a OHM reading on output wires from SW1 to ground, if I hit "0" (or close) there is a short in the outbound wire or the destination part? Good idea...

Ok. So I finally had a chance to revisit this. I tried unhooking the main fuel pump and still get a breaker pop. From what the schematics say wire 136D maps to the master switch, when disconnected the breaker does not pop, but nothing works. So from what I am seeing that leaves 4 options since...

Thank You!

Interesting. Apparently someone wired the breaker backwards since that was attached to the "Load" terminal of the breaker and not "Line". Guess it was bad for me to assume, I'll take the meter out and verify where power is coming from and going to.

Ok.. Sorry it has been so long, a lot of stuff going on. I tried disconnecting the main fuel pump, breaker still pops. I took the alternate approach and disconnected the two output lines from the breaker one at a time. Wire #135A20 is causing the breaker to blow. Any chance that these are all...

I'll disconnect it tomorrow and see where it goes from there. I have a feeling that I may need to also inspect/test the wiring for rodent damage. Last time there was a problem was when mice made a nest on the main terminal block that ended up electrocuting all of them and started a small fire in...

I just went out and validated, it is CB1 right above FU1.