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When it gets hot, I just take the doors off and drive faster.

UPDATE: May be sorted out? After conferring with “Pump Jesus” Dennis Erickson I hooked up a clear line from the fuel filter to the injection pump.. I had been getting sufficient fuel pressure but what I didn’t know was I was also getting quite a bit of *air*. After replacing the “juicy spots”...

Put a clear hose between the filter and the IP, and a clear hose put of the fuel return line. That fuel return line hose looks like a bubbler in an old Whirlitzer jukebox. The supply line has 0 bubbles at idle but if I gun the pedal some bigger bubbles pass through. I put a clamp on the fuel...

Update: The pump guy wants me to stick a piece of clear hose on the fuel return with a loop and between the filter and the input of the injection pump. He says the surging is a result of air and looking for bubbles after it sat overnight would suggest where the air is coming from. He also told...

I'd read in a few places that a stuck closed return valve would cause the pump to starve for fuel, so I drilled it out really just to eliminate a stuck or faulty check valve as the source of my issues. My new solenoid arrived today and I fully intended to replace the valve with a new one once...

Unless i’m missing something.. and I very well could be.. the only thing the “Cold Advance Solenoid” physically does is open and close the check valve. I may have the manner of operation backwards.. but at least on my truck.. that cold advance solenoid is only capable of opening and closing...

What I can tell you is my check valve was, when removed, normally closed. The solenoid needle pressed into the check valve to open or close it. Maybe the needle kept it normally pushed open and when activated it closed it? Either way, the check valve is wide open on my IP now.

I have stared that.. it probably just got buried in the all the other posts. :D I confirmed the return line valve was opening and closing by blowing air through it and pushing the pin in and out. The solenoid that activates that felt “sticky” so to be 100% sure the valve was open drilled out...

Well.. there are two solenoids.. the big one I thought was the fuel shutoff and the small one in the top of the lid has a needle that opens/closes the fuel return valve. I’ve been told if the fuel return was blocked it could cause the engine to starve for fuel.. although I was also told that the...

Here's a video of how it sounds when it acts up.. sometimes it'll do this and then just be fine again... other times the "rurrr... rurrrr.... rurrrrr" will get longer and longer and then it'll die.. then it'll run fine for 200 miles. http://www.diyhmmwv.com/IMG_6967.mov

I pulled the fuel return line valve out and drilled it out. It is permanently wide open because I thought maybe the solenoid may not have been opening it. When I replaced the fuel filter it didn’t look bad at all. I just did it because the truck was new to me and thats just one of the things...

I cobbled together a brass T and put the fuel pressure gauge in the line going from the filter to the IP.. it ran with a straight shot to the IP with the pressure gauge on the T but not great and only showed about 1 pound of pressure. With the gauge on the T it wouldn’t start. With nothing but...

Yeah, I took the fuel cap off... still did it with the fuel cap off. I'm going to pick up a fuel pressure gauge from Harbor Freight tomorrow.. i wonder if I can hook the gauge up with a T to monitor the pressure while the truck is running. I ran it today and immediately after it died I popped...

.. after over 50 miles it started acting up again. Started up fine, idled for 15 minutes to warm up.. got about four blocks down the road and got chuggy then died. Cranked like it was outta fuel, I stomped on the pedal a few times and it restarted, got about a block and it happened again...

The truck starts great hot OR cold. In negative 20 degree weather, hit the glow plugs for 5 seconds, rest 5, hit it 5 then turn it over, it pops right off... when the engine is warm I don't even hit the glow plugs.. just turn the key and it's starts right up with a half a crank. Boom. I'm...

Seafoam.. lot of guys swear by the gallon jugs of Lucas Oil.. i’m told even Stanadyne themselves market a fuel additive for $10 that treats 60 gallons. I’ve heard old timers talk about ATF for years in the crankcase. Get a burn? Rub ATF on it. Lose a finger? Throw it in ATF fluid and try to get...

.. just because I hate finding years old posts from people who have similar symptoms and they just kinda trail off with no resolution.. here's where i'm at. I replaced the fuel shutoff solenoid just because ya know what? The truck is 30 years old, who knows how old that solenoid is and I was...

That’s what it was.. a chunk of plastic off the fuel return solenoid insulator. I’ll have to order a replacement. A pump rebuilder told me he suspects my pump issues are due to a sticking plunger in the pump and advised me to dump a quart of ATF in the tank for every 15 gallons and claims...

I finally put that together and posted it just 1 minute before you mentioned it. I'd looked at the bodies of both solenoids and they looked fine. A guy on one the the facebook groups had suggested maybe the fuel return solenoid may have shed some plastic because the way the stick out in the...

I’ve determined the plastic came from the lead that feeds the fuel return solenoid. The bigger chunk i found looked a lot like the bottom side of this lead, and with further inspection that was missing a hunk. Could be shorting to ground and that’s causing my issues. I’ll have to replace it snd...