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The glow plugs draw as much as 120 amps by themselves, but the alternator is not intended to make up for that draw in real time. If everything is working properly the glow plugs are only on for a short period, most of which the alternator is not even running. The alternator replaces that...

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong... Thinking the Horsepower to Watts conversion is HP * 746. So your 0.26hp 12V motor at steady state needs (0.26hp X 746) /12V = 16.2amps

Don't have a key lock for the run/start switch so it also gives a little security when parked unattended on the farm. Is convenient to open the rear half door and flip the hidden switch. The switch is behind the passenger seat. If the vehicle has side panels instead of doors that location...

I used that plug mount to install a battery cutoff. It already had two heavy 0 guage cables to the plug from the batteries so just had to swap one connection. But mine is a two man, so I haven't installed rear passenger seats back there.

Seems obvious but would be checking the levels of both your power steering and automatic transmission. Noticed mine did the same thing running up the mountain when I first got it. Adding a little of the correct fluid in the power steering reservoir fixed that whine. I could see the same...

Was the Chief Engineer at a facility that included EMP testing. Honestly, my expertise in that particular area was pretty much limited to improving long term test capabilities. Only got involved as much as a typical manager for that test area. More of a IR/Radar/Laser/EMC/Computer test guy...

This morning eased down the steep mountain driveway in 10" of snow without even noticing. Then I drove for awhile through the lower field just for fun. Tried to go back up the driveway to the house and only got about 500 ft before it lost traction and started sliding backwards down the hill...

Yes, the newer trucks are a different animal. My 1993 M1097 doesn't have a dual voltage regulator, or a Transmission Control Module that requires 12V center-tap. I checked for parasitic draw a couple days ago given winter is now here, and because batteries will be batteries. Only measured...

About half my zipper on both soft doors had pulled away. Since I'm cheap I just grabbed a heavy needle, heavy duty thread, and a thimble. Took a couple hours of in/out with the needle making sure to hit the original holes and looks just fine, unless you're the type of person that stares a...

Any upgrades to my 1993 M1097 will likely fall under the "Poor Boy" modification category... A 100lb piece of firewood slamming into the back of the drivers seat on the way down the mountain really gets your attention. This scrap 2x6 will do for right now. A 2x10 would have been better...

Have only had my M1097 for a couple months, and was also playing in the snow for the first time. Would keep at 190F on flat ground in the fields without the fan engaging but going up the long mountain driveway at higher rpms it would quickly push to 210F. It's good to confirm the engine runs...

My fuel gauge sometimes sticks at full, sometimes reads correctly, and often just reads high or bounces around as the fuel sloshes inside the tank. Obviously a bad fuel sending unit. I need to get the initiative to drop the tank a little, cut a fuel sender access panel in the bed, since mine...

The only thing that I can think off is, " If you are titling your vehicle in Virginia for the first time and you hold a valid title or registration in your name by another state or a branch of the United States Armed Forces, you will not have to pay the SUT. However, if you purchased the vehicle...

The Orion 24V-12V dc-dc converter (blue box) has a built in enable input. I routed the 24V run signal directly to that. The clear plastic box at the top of the pic is just a 12V fuse box.

Just a 24V to 12V converter energized when the run signal is received. Found an hour meter in my parts drawer last week and added that since mileage means almost nothing on military vehicles. Though 3 hours on a 30 year old vehicle isn't all that helpful either.

Can't help you on the proper setup but here's what I did. Got a M1097 for free and haven't spent much on it. It had two dissimilar 12V car batteries loosely sitting in the battery box without tiedowns. That's not good in these hills. The original battery pan was for the 6TL batteries...

Not sure what info you need. On my clipped diagram from TM-9-2320-280-20-3, 75B labeled in Red and 75A in Green go to Pins K & A respectively on the light switch connector. Other than that I can't be of much help.

Not a recommendation because I am not all that mechanically inclined... Had a swollen GP tip break off and wedge itself in the hole. On a HMMWV the injector port is right there, so I thought about pulling the injector and tapping the tip back into the engine to remove through the port...

Was scrolling to the end of this post to tell you the sound was likely the drivers side rubber bumper that the hood sits on. Chased the same horrible squeaking sound for a day until I found it. Put a little grease on that rubber bumper and the sound went away. Three new rubber bumpers are...

Managed to get a 1993 M1097 for free a few months ago. Four HMMWVs were dumped by a military contractor at a aluminum scrap yard a relative operates so we grabbed a couple to tinker on. Worked on the oldest first. Only had to change fluids, clean the fuel tank, replace power steering...