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I have two vw tdi's with the 1.9 alh turbo diesel 4 cylinder stock specs are 90hp and 155tq(tho easy to turn up). They are a good little cars both have over 400k on them I lost a timing belt about a month or two back on one of them and they are an interference engine so it bent the valves. I...

What about a 4BT cummins?

I'll be curious what you find out as I have never fixed my code 73 issue with my four speed and everything I checked out always seemed to come back fine.

Probably be pretty easy to weld up your own seems like they want a lot for those when it would only cost about 100 bucks to make.

depending on how bad it is I would sand blast the whole thing and coat it with POR-15 than painting over that with whatever looks closest to the stock paint like was mentioned above.

Renting a trailer seems like the easier, quicker, safer option.

True but you left out the part that the Hawker batteries alone aren't enough in Artic environments and the military has a addon artic diesel powder heater to warm the engine. It is good to know that the Hawker last a long time but 4 batteries would still provide more CCA. The instruction for...

Thanks for the correction on the CCA as I have no idea just assumed that stacked together. 4 group 65 batteries would never fit under the passenger seat up front but could be spilt between the front and rear passenger side easily. Ya i'm not really sure you need more than 700CCA as I started...

I'm currently running 65 series batteries with I believe is 850 CCA so 4 of those would be 3400CCA vs Hawker's at 2200CCA.

Now I know this isn't required but I was wondering if anyone has done it? Was thinking about adding 2 more batteries in the rear and a equalizer between all 4. The only reason is we get some really cold days here was -20 the other day and while I have a block heater that doesn't do me any good...

you could always cut a hole in the top of the fender and go straight up. But if you don't like it your probably gonna need/know someone with a tig machine to fix the hole.

You got me thinking I need to make some doors and winidows too now when summer rolls around, Gonna start with a hard top tho. If you were closer I would have cut you a nice circle with my plasma cutter but the square top looks good to. I'm thinking for doors to do something like a combo of...

when my smart box died it did the same thing. Light worked as it should but the glow plug had a constant 24v that fried them all. I modified my smart box to make it a manual controller that way it never happens again and the cost was around $100 bucks. if you go that route this will help alot...

pressurizing the tank and then crack all the injectors one by one to bleed off any air sounds like a good idea to me. If you can get it started then and it runs like crap you may have to bleed them some more.

decided to test a glow plug right off the batteries so I could see exactly what was going on each second I held the button. For me at 4 secs the plugs starts to smoke and really fast it turns red by 5 seconds and that's where I stopped of course how fast a person counts is going to change this a...

well got her all put together today and tested it out works like a champ. still smoked some starting up the first time but I probably didn't hold it long enough. this video isn't a cold start as I already had started it once. https://youtube.com/shorts/m3f70q0kBos I'll have to do some testing...

tested it today when the j1 connector is unplug there is no light at anytime.

Time to bust out the tread regroover

ok I checked the resistance at the sensor and got 147ohms not sure what it should be. Now where does the TCM read the input from the CPS as i'm not seeing it on this picture of the J1 connector. Is that what they are calling a engine speed sensor?

So turning the switch to run the light comes on, start the engine and return it to run the light never goes off until you turn the truck completely off.