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I was thinking. Yes I know we are not supposed to do that but, What is the reason not to reuse your star washer. I would assume that you would not want to bent the same tabs more than once. Since the nut wasn't tight and upside down I went and installed and torque the nut. I wanted to see if the...

No... I need a new star lock washer and I JUST place an order BEFORE I found the loose nut. I am a cheap bastard and hate to pay shipping twice. They also had the nut on backwards and there was a huge burr on the threads... the nut wasn't going to seat. Also having a heck of the time trying...

I want to JUNK my rig... Thing has me so pissed off... The issues I am finding is crazy... So doing the "check the spindle nuts" (don't judge is was consensual) I found 1) drivers front the bolt holding wasn't tight, missing the sealing washer on the fill plug, and RTV in the bearings.2)...

https://x.com/FavoriteBears/status/1915898360248328468

I used the one from rock auto on my M997A2 and it work fine. It looks just like what was replaced. You can use this on the A/C trucks but will need to install the cable. All the mounting holes are there except for the data plate... a drill will fix that.

The valve I used is $9.50 plus shipping https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7935548&cc=0&pt=6860&jsn=1 16.95 free shipping https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-74828-Heater-Valve/dp/B001B7BUAU Brick and mortor auto part store 19.99...

I remember how I felt when I "accidently" won mine... Non runner and what not. I saw a turret cap sitting in a garbage pile at the local armory... I wanted to stop and ask someone if it was trash but never did. I enjoy driving the LMTV better than the HMMWV... Also LMTV people are a little...

item 13-16 missing 17

Fan Clutch. Missing the quick disconnect fitting on the end of the hose. Well that's my guess anyway/

Not that anybody asked but I really like to get my fasteners from McMaster Carr. One of if not the best company I have ever worked with! https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/hex-head-screws~/thread-size~5-8-18/length~5-1-2/

Next question is there a paint that will not burn off if I want to paint the cast iron? Or maybe some type of coating like Cerakote? Might as well paint the housing while it's out.

Are the ones linked below the correct part? Is one better than the other or are these all made in the same sweatshop in China? https://www.ebay.com/itm/375555156212 https://www.ebay.com/itm/154874057837 https://www.ebay.com/itm/146210588424 https://www.ebay.com/itm/262753980135

So is there a better cartage to buy or just find the cheapest one I can find? As for the oil and runaway. I know diesels can do this but I don't think this is too much an issue with these. After all it's not a 2 cycle Detroit with a blower and a turbo:wreckerman893:

It is working well... I think I'll leave it as wired where it will crank but will not start. I think it is better to have the system turn off when you switch the master switch to off. And only about 40 bucks. I'll pay myself the HMMMWV tax. I am also going to put one of these in my LMTV!

JLTV right in the middle of the grill :) https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/63/L-ATV_4.jpg

Oshkosh and, Stewart and Stevenson are all like hold my beer...

Any you want. The AM General stamped one are on early trucks. May have been rebuilt and there will be a mix of both.

There is little to no blow by and the engine runs fine. The first indication is there is oil seeping out of the cross over on the intake. The next indication is there is oily soot in the tail pipe. I don't have much experience with the turbo engines and is this normal? It only smokes at startup...

guess they didn't have a volt meter?

I took that into consideration about forgetting to switch the relay (in y our case the key) When I flip the master switch to off it also switched the relay off. There is no way I will forget. Oh a picture of my HMMWV with some stuff on the hood...