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I’ve replaced many rear evaporators…no way to do almost anything without removing the entire unit. There is no parts replacements for the motors and squirrel cages.

For the 12 millionth time….the generator pulley dictates the belt size.

let us know what you find, so far I’ve found everything I’ve needed on amazon. new calipers, rotors, pads, starter, filters, fluids….

12342899 is the correct booster

Any glass shop can make them, I’ve been installing rear wall windows for years.

Well, that doesn’t actually answer the question, was the timing set scribe to scribe as the factory does? And how much is the pump,advanced now? I don’t time my pumps, i set them dead center via the scribes and go from there…a scribe width or 3 to the drivers side advances the pump.

the timing scribe on the pump should be set to the timing scribe on the timing gear housing…that’s the starting point and 99% of the time that’s it…if it needs to be advanced and as I’ve seen on rebuilt pump “extensively” advanced? The pump was calibrated incorrectly…

That BO lamp is not IR, it’s a naked eye BO lamp, meaning….it’s doesn’t shut down an NVG when looked at under NVG and does not affect the naked eyes due to exposure to light at night, at least not the way white light does…the spectrum for NVG has been Blue-Green for some time, in the old days it...

well, that depends on the caliper…in the case of Wilwood GNX4’s, there are 4 bleeders, the calipers are universal. you must bleed all 4 bleed when bleeding them…

grease fitting? Ummmm, those are bleed nipples for bleeding the calipers, certainly hope you didn’t try to grease them

There should be no water in the fuel or old fuel…you should have drained the fuel tank and added fresh fuel. The rough idle can be easily be air still in the system, the white smoke can be a bad injector, a bad pump, low compression etc… this is why I don’t “shot gun“ a host of new parts when...

using rebuilt pumps literally leaves open the higher possibility the issue is the rebuilt pump, unless it was doing same with old pump.

Anyone who owns a hmmwv should have the 200 mile plan from AAA….its used every week in my shop from truck owners.

The stud brackets are in the correct position for an A2 truck.

A working pump will pull from the tank and out of the fuel filter in above 10 seconds or less of cranking.

This truck is an NA and has no catalytic converter, nor is this a problem on NA’s that do…it’s purely a “Turbo” truck issue, at least from my experience

sounds like you have the cold advance and fuel cutoff wires reversed at the top of the pump, the rearward plug is “ribbed” to match the injection pump ribbed boot, 54A is the fuel cutoff solenoid and is the forward plug. when the truck warms up, it denies 24v on the cold advance thermostatic...

unplug the brake switch and check for 12v on the body harness side, make a switch or jumper and replicate pressing the brake pedal to lock and unlock the TCC….you will be able to feel and hear it and can do this as you drive along at a steady rate of about 45mph, this will tell you the TCC...

that’s the CPS “crank pos sensor” if it were unplugged the “trans”lamp would be on while the Engine is running because the TCM wouldn’t see the engine running.

Tried…no one bothers to respond to my RFQ