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I just capped mine off with the cap Big Mikes included with the kit.

Check the intake manifold end of the ground wire for the alternator. I have had a few of mine get corrosion there and weird things happen.

The fast idle solenoid is not powerful enough to move the throttle lever on its own. Any time the key is on and the coolant temperature is below 94° the green wire to the fast idle solenoid should have 12 volts. If you don’t touch the throttle after turning on the ignition the fast idle solenoid...

If you had to bash out the internals of the return line check valve. Your injection pump is coming apart inside and needs to be rebuilt. Getting that done will probably fix your problem. Another thought I has was your fast idle solenoid. Do you push the throttle about half way down after...

I didn’t open LMC to follow up each part number. However, the name of the parts look like you are on the right track. I would also suggest new biodiesel grade hoses at the fuel tank to solid line connections. Follow the metal line all the way from the tank to the fuel pump and replace any other...

Have you checked the ground from the batteries at the frame connection? Same with the ground strap from the starter if it has one and the ground strap from the engine to the frame.

Thanks for posting the end result.

The Ford 6.9/7.3 DB2 pump has people adjusting it all the time. Besides spinning the other way, what is different about adjusting it?

That is a good idea.

Here is a video showing the 2 different ways to get at the adjustment screw:

You want to tighten the screw to reduce the fuel rate. Is it a 6.2 pump or a 6.5 pump? 829 is a 6.2 pump and 831 on the data plate is a 6.5 pump.

I am interested as well. I have a set of the 27450C lights and love them. I didn’t know they were discontinued.

Oh, here is a video about turning up the fuel rate in the injection pump:

You can turn the fuel up a little to get some power. But the reality is that without a turbo it is never going to set the world on fire. I see in your signature that you have CUCV 6.2 experience. So, you might actually feel a difference turning up the IP. No one with out 6.2 experience will be...

If there is not much but rust in there. Patience and lots of lube with the thread chasers will be the less destructive. A tap will work, but it will remove the most metal while doing so.

Good catch. I have never disassembled that part of a truck.

Buy a thread chaser kit. Here is a video about what they are and how they are different from a tap. A lubricant of your choice and gently with patience running the thread chaser should get you going: I do not remember what exact thread size and pitch the bolts are. Sorry. There is a link in...

I can’t say for sure but that tickles “Tie down” in my head. Valve cover to fuel line or wiring harness? I write that because the fuel injector lines have those little bitty screws that hold the double line clamps to a bracket. Your part has threads for a little bitty screws.

If you turn the engine with one hand while pushing on the rod with the other. You will feel the low spot easily. Use grease as you mentioned to hold it in. The grease should hold it long enough for you to put the plate on with the 2 small screws. If the rod falls, use more grease. Think...

That F-105 in Wild Weasel colors just makes me stop what I am doing and sit in awe for a few minutes of what those guys did. There is a 2 seat F-105 at the cavenaugh airplane museum in Addison. They had it sitting out on the ramp over by a fence looking all neglected and forgotten. I walked...