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cucvrus, I will take your advise and splice the wires. Which resistor under the hood are you referring to. Thanks, Scott

Thanks for all the help guys. It turns out that my local NAPA had the blower switch and plug. The switch is part number HC101. The plug was EC87. So now I have to decide if I push the metal contacts out of the new plug or cut and splice the wires...... The switch was only 12.69. I paid...

My blower quit and I traced the problem to the switch. It is GM part number 16032480. The burnt switch also melted a small hole in the wiring harness plug that holds the hot jumper and the three wires to the resistors. Has anyone had to replace this plug? Any ideas? Thanks, Scott Burns

I guess I am way overthinking this issue. I just do not want to do all the labor any more often than possible. I appreciate everyones help/opinion Scott

I just found this suggestion from another thread: http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/heater-core/pro-source-heater-core/459245_0_0_6774 Has anyone tried this one? Or should I just use the spectra premium that has been mentioned in several other threads?

Has anybody tried one of these factory brass heater cores from Summit racing: https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/heater-cores/product-line/summit-racing-classic-oem-heater-cores/year/1986/make/chevrolet/model/k5-blazer?autoview=SKU&sortby=Default&sortorder=Ascending Mind is leaking...

Apparently my other post did not show up..... The man I spoke with at Truck-lite said the 27490/27491 are for Europe and depend on which side of the road you drive on. He said the 27450 was the US bulb. How difficult is the install? Scott

Also, how do you buy direct from Truck-lite? They told me they only sell through dealers Scott

In case anyone is following this thread: The metal bracket is part of the ignition switch. You have to remove the headlight dimmer switch that is on top. a 5/16 nut in front and a 3/8 nut in the rear. Then you remove the 5/16 nut in the rear to get the ignition switch off.

Well I found the ignition switch. you have to remove the trim around the steering wheel and the instrument panel bezel. Then there are 2 metric bolts holding it up. When you remove the nuts on the sides of the steering column, then the steering column will drop down enough for you to access...

OK. I may have made some progress on my own. The right hand side of the fuse slot on the working truck has voltage to ground when the ignition is on. The right hand contact of the 25 amp wiper fuse slot does not have voltage to ground when the problem truck is switched on. Diagram F-4 of the...

I need a little help from someone who has a better understanding of the wiring of the M1009 than me. I have looked at the Wiring Diagram on page 874 of 940 in TM 9-2320-289-20 in figure F-20. I tested the voltage at the plug before the suppressor assy. I have no voltage between the...

What about the clip that holds the cable on? My clip came off and the cable slips off. I was told that a new cable included the clip. GM parts here in town says that the original equipment cable is no longer available. I bought an aftermarket cable at Oreilly's, but it did not come with the...

this is what I did; http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/57548-garvin-wilderness-track-rack-61410-installation.html

Scott Burns Florence, SC

Tracy, That looks good. can't wait to see it. SCott

I have the Goodyear Kevlar 32X11.50X15 's on a stock M1009 with no lift. No problems. Worked great in the snow this past week.

Here it is on the truck

I'll post an on truck photo tomorrow. Got it back on today

Wallew, The track that is up top is steel. The bolts go through the fiberglass top. I positioned them so that they are through the double thickness part out towards the sides. They have large flat washers distributing the force and there are 8 bolts on each side. Seems very strong to me...