Search results

final solution to issue was poor grounding through panel, i ended up sanding a few of the threaded inserts and the backside of the panel in same location and everything works as it should, thank you guys for the help and insight!!

Fun fact i drove these as an 88m, in the reserves so ive seen the exact same things being mentioned but at the same time i learned how to take care of the equipment that ive had to drive and to help maintenance out when possible because in the worst case scenario i always wanted to know how to...

all the standard lights come on from the indicator panel, i did some more troubleshooting from the TM after noticing the gauges wouldnt move on start up so i checked that fuse, lo and behold that fuse was bad so i place a regular automotive fuse same amp rating and buzzer came on, gauges moved...

checked connections and yes had a few swapped, corrected that and also tested start inhibit relay and relay checks out good, so something is causing that to not allow cranking, also my main light switch is still tripping its resettable fuse

i checked 912 and 913 are not connected and they are not, i went ahead and disconnected the main light switch and my no start issue is still present, im gonna use the tm to look through what connect goes wear to make sure im good there

So got a M1078A1, swapped batteries out and got it running, i removed the dash to paint it and to clean up the gauges, i marked most of the connectors to where they correspond, and now i can not get the truck to crank, the button does nothing no relays click, and when i turn my park and...

24v starter was replaced with a 12v starter in the conversion process of the truck

Fair enough point on current draw, so a 12v - 24v boost/step up will probably on its way here shortly. its still interesting that im not reading any voltage from the CTIS fuse slot. In any regard thank you for the assistance it probably has saved me from damaging components that are already...

Im thinking something did get disconnected when it went in for 12v conversion, truck has trickle charger hooked on to maintain batteries when truck is shut off and disconnect on the off position. I have considered the converter but looking at the wiring it doesn't appear that it draws that much...

so on the fuse panel under the dash in the cab (on m916a3) slot labeled "CTIS 24V" was tested for voltage and no voltage was present. checked for short and no continuity was found. so to get the 24V out of the 12V conversion i have to run a power wire from 2 batteries? (if i have to go that...

So turns out that stepping down isn't as large of an issue depending on the system you're powering. Reason for the conversion from 24v to 12v is fleet wide standard everything runs on 12v and a lot of the 24v systems weren't going to be used. Either way it appears that theres no power running...

I was doing some reading and saw that the CTIS on fmtv's, m916's were 24v, so if someone did a conversion from 24v to 12v. would the system still function or would you have to change the CTIS to 12v? if so how can it be done?

Found a Parker shop, gave them a rang and told them what i need and they came back with what appears to be the right fittings. Have them in route will post a picture when they arrive.

pn short hose a12-15324-003 / parker # 33VMYO35 pn long hose a12-16446-002 / PG27M10 hose with 2 jic fittings not needed

I understand this isnt the correct forum but is the closest considering vehicle type, i do apologize. What im working on is a M916a3 w/CTIS, acquired through DRMO, sat for sometime and went through a fab shop to extend frame and paint so now its a fire truck. Fab shop lost some CTIS hoses mainly...