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I also own a 1984 Chev Dually ex-military vehicle. I replaced the engine with a 383 HiTorque and a TH400 I rebuilt. Used it to go camping towing the trailer several times. Needed more room for the family though. So I bought a new 2019 Chev 3500 Dually. Love this truck so...
I revised post #278 showing how to install the snap-ring holding the military shaft sealing unit on the shifter shaft.
Basically you use a deep socket to "push" the snap-ring into it's groove. Using a rubber hammer give the socket a good "wack" and it will seat. With new "O"-rings it can be a...
Thats the shaft. The bores are already bored out on all the 303M shafts I've seen so far. Though only two where actually to the proper size. The rest I had machined out to the correct size.
So it appears this is a factory problem and not a rebuild problem. Though if the mechanics who rebuilt...
That's the problem. The TM only mentions the bushing in one short paragraph .
I knew about the bushing since I rebuilt the HydraMatic transmissions in civilian cars too.
The oil pressure is regulated no matter how much is leaking or not. It is at high oil demands that a leak will cause severe problems as the oil pump cannot keep up with demand.
This bushing also holds the "input shaft" in place. Without it, it allows the shaft to "wobble" all over the place...
I was a commercial welder for 10 years. I had to learn welding during my "apprenticeship years" .
You can TIG weld cast-iron using "Ni-rod" but on critical areas like one of the four case holding bolts you run the risk of cracking at the edge of the weld. Also any cast-iron that has been exposed...
When you were working on the exhaust system did you remove the exhaust manifold ?
For some reason the "governor" keeps popping up in my brain. Have you checked those lines ? The ones from the front of the engine to the carburetor.
OK, now that I got my "wild speculation" out of the way let's...
Thank you for checking. That pretty much confirms my theory about this transmission. Without that bushing installed, the transmission is losing fluid pressure at an extremely fast rate. This is the "smoking gun" I've been looking for to explain the short life of the average 303M transmission.
Hey, since you have your transmission all apart can you check and see if you have the bushing installed in your "midshaft (first output shaft) " . It's the one the input shaft goes into.
Thanks.
You don't need a meter or anything except a jar to hold the fuel for a "flow test". Really a flow test is very simple. Most manuals will list a specific amount of fluid the pump must put out. So, let's say the manual says the pump must put out a quart of fuel in "X" amount of time. So, you find...
I wasn't talking about "replacing" parts but actually "testing" the system like many here said to do. A simple flow test would have uncovered a problem. Then it would have just been a simple matter of going through the fuel lines until the problem was found. That is all.
Glad you found the problem. This is an important lesson to learn when working on any vehicle. Start at one item first ie: fuel lines. Once you are sure that is fixed then proceed to the next item. You do not jump from one item to another trying to fix a problem. If a proper fuel flow test had...
The fuel line size will make no difference here. The only way it would is if you're going to a "smaller" size.
It's a matter of "flow" .
In my crud drawing you can see the pump is exiting at a given size and the carburetor has a given size for entry. As long as the fuel line is not smaller...
OK. Lets regroup here for a moment. You have replaced the points and condenser, checked the electrical system for spark leaks and are now checking the fuel system. You replaced the fuel filter and rebuilt the carburetor. When you rebuilt the carburetor did you replace the governor diaphragm and...
Was the large Torus nut loose ? Looks like something went through the vanes like a crank flywheel bolt or the Torus nut.
Can you verify if the input shaft has the "steel bushing" on it ? I cannot tell from your picture.
OK. First off you need to determine if your ignition system is working properly. That means your points, condenser, cap and rotor, spark plugs and cables. Once they have been fully checked out, you then can go and check the fuel system.
No more jumping around. That gets you nowhere fast. You...
You say you rebuilt the carb ? That opens up a whole new can of worms. Did you replace the "piston" thingy (accelerator pump) that squirts fuel into the manifold ? There is usually a small check valve at the bottom of the bore (ball bearing usually) . Also you mention the idle adjusting screws...