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Quick question you all. Have any of you pulled out the guts of these buckets and replaced them with Truk-lite led. See pic. First pic is old bucket. Second pic is new Truk-Lite number along with pics of new led witch will attach to the bucket.

I throw my name in the hat. Great batteries.

If you spray some LPS1 in the open cast port...it will most likely work just fine.

Is it taking that long to get a EUC now?

No I did not remove the cable. I just provided a small fwd movement and it shifted into low gear.

Oh....well I have had the same issues at least I thought so at first. I was told to try moving fwd ...coasting and it went right in....the same for putting it back in high. Have you tried this methid?

Use green....50/50 or 60/40 if your up north. Also if you plan on using a non nitrate make sure you clean your system out thoroughly. Carpet cleaners use a descaler...this will remove most build up...thoroughly wash out then...change your hoses...then fill. If you plan on mixing it yourself...

So the linkage wasnt over center. When the engine cover is off...look at the left hand side of the engine by the throttle. Is the plastic roller stuck in the wrong position? In actuality the engine and cab are seperate from eachother thats why there is a ramp up on oneside. Also in this is...

Where to get a pressure protection valve/ regulator? For each seat?

See pics. Had to replace 1 of the 4 batteries. Just under 3 years old. With Number 1 and 3 connected for 24v...is this correct. Im guessing that on any prolonged starts...#3 takes the hit for the starter. BACK 2. 4. FRONT 1. 3.

I removed the std troop seats for driver and passenger. Installed a fully adjustable air seat. Looking for ideas to hook up for air? Anywhere on the CTIS manifold? Or is there a preferred area?

Quick question. On a M1070....when using the air system....I did a check yesterday. Results. Ctis system full air specs. All wheels 68psi. On the Emergency setting. All wheels 28psi. Air down time....10-15min Air up time.... 1hr or so. Does this sound or spec out ok? If not???

Just sent home a restored See 419. 1 left. Most of these machines were ignored. Most of the rubber parts need changing...locker seals, ect. Check the wire harness for mice issues...lucky enough to install a new one. Fluid, filters, lube, and lots of fineegling and the trucks come back too...

Spray lubricant in air manifold 4x4 lock cylinder. The original one was frozen/stuck....a bit of lube and it was working fine.

Anybody know if the Fwd/Reverse lever has the same shift bushing?

Replacing the shifter bushing fixed the problem. There was hardly any old bushing left. Took about an hour. I did not remove the airlines. 1.. Pull boot up from rubber deck boot. 2. Loosen 4 bolts for the rubber deck boot and move down. 3. Push down and counter clockwise on the cap...

Pictures. Pictures

Update Good news. 1...Hydraulic Coolers work fine. They have come on several times. 2...New alternator installed along new main wiring harness. Charging at 28v now plus Tach is working fine. Note...when removing the switches from the dash be very careful... clips are brittle. Next is R/R...

Belmetric out of NH...talk to Matt. He carries Metric fittings and MB metric hoses. He's fast and knowledgeable of Unimogs to boot. He can also get you SS. Great website too.

Mog was sitting for 6 years. Condition of fuel was terrible...green algae. Rust and heavy sediment in tank. Micro screen kept getting clogged. Remedy... Replaced...all metric lines. New fuel filter assembly. We fuel pump. R&R tank. Filter kit. Note...if you play with the fittings and...