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I wouldn't even know where to find a solar tube water heater. I am interested in building a battery/solar bank though. Any good sites or books on that?

This makes a lot of sense. Thanks for explaining it more in-depth to me. Safety is important to me, and I don't want someone/thing becoming an extraneous GND.

The 701a is a different unit than the TQG series. It was not intended, as delivered, to run 240/120 single phase supply. They were commonly altered at the unit level to do that, and when you run them in 120/1ph, you have to change that wire back. The commonly held theory is because when run in...

Yes. Not mentioned is that nearly all of the 701a units (016B with an ASK installed) have a "ground safety modification" performed where a wire is run from the backside (control box side) of the L0 to the backside of the frame GND lug to run in std 240/120 "household" voltage. I changed that...

YES. IMMENSELY. I wasn't sure what to do about the "ground safety modification" since it isn't discussed in the TM! I did start a new thread about this as discussed. Thanks!!

Me again - I'm trying to use my 701a to run 120/1ph so I can get all 30+ amps on one leg. The goal is to be able to run my 30amp camper from it as needed; I've even got an RV receptacle and some cable I can run to the lugs on the 701a so it looks all fancy and is easy to use. Using this...

Fair. I was trying to reduce clutter by not adding another post that might relay to this one - but I see what you mean. I'll start up another one with my post as the first one. Thank you!

I actually answered one of the questions from the other thread by reading this one, and rephrased the second question with more focus. Semantics aside, I have edited the other post and removed the questions completely. If I post a separate thread now, will I run afoul of the rules? I'm trying...

I think he's trying to sell both.

Oof, yeah, I can't help you. They have air brakes and I don't have a truck big enough even if I caged the brakes. Good luck.

Raising this one back from the dead - Do I simply move the ground from the L0 to the L2 in order to run 120/1ph? I don't need to change anything from L2 to make it my neutral leg? Also, I'm using 8ga (or maybe 6ga? Can't tell) cable for my power cable. There are 3 (red, blk, wht) power wires...

I got my 003a for $500 after fees and such. It was a basket case that had been picked off for parts just as you described. I'm not surprised at all by this news; it's the cycle of life for military hardware. There's no way I could do that now, and with the prices on the auction sites, it's not...

When do you have to pick them up? And do the trailers have covers?

I got the Aux pump working. I switched the wires to their correct positions and it works great now. Now I just need to figure out how to wire it to run a camper. Thanks for the help.

I think I may have figured something out. A1-TB2-9 is supposed to have 4 wires coming off it: GND (missing) A1-VR2-B(-) (currently connected to A1-TB2-8) A2-M4(-) (correctly connected) A1-J1-N (correctly connected) So I should probably start by fixing the incorrect wire and the missing...

Thanks for the extracted files. I saved them for later. I've been looking at them and I get lost as to where the individual wires go once they get to a cannon plug. When I turn the master switch to "prime/run Aux" there is a clunk as though a solenoid or relay is engaging, but the pump doesn't...

I need to check CB1 because master switch pin 17 goes there, and then I need to figure out what comes off that CB and where they go if it's good. I'll admit, the cannon plugs confuse me. I can't reaidly figure out once a wire goes in there, where it goes next or where it pops up.

Here are the TMs that I have: TM 5-6115-640-14&P TM 5-6115-615-34 TM 5-6115-615-12 TM 5-6115--615-24P I think I've been working out of -34 and -14&P, not -12 so I'm going to dive into that one today.

I'll take a look. It might be an old version that I have.

I have, but the diagrams in it did not look like this. Thanks guyfang! As for the float switch - continuity is good through pins A,B,&C when "empty". I pulled it out to check. Floats seem to slide easily up and down and actually float when in diesel. I'll clean it while I have it out though.