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I'd bet @kloppk knows where they can be had.

Here's a better deal on Ebay.UK but I have no idea about any import duties or any additional expenses these days...

If you have to have OEM gaskets you can go to Online power products and get the gasket kit # 657-34280 for $326 and the head gasket is separate, PN. 754-40891 for $85. To be honest, I've probably used a dozen or more China kits for <$100 and the only gasket in the kits that is a little sub-par...

See, tagging a member works every time! I'm still making the adapters and will send you a PM. You are correct, I think you need 10-15 posts before you can contact another member directly.

I'd have another go at cleaning S8. Get the cleaner inside the switch contacts and work the switch aggressively, then spray it again! It sounds like the last cleaning made an improvement to where you can now apply a 5K load, but can't sustain it indefinitely?

Rather than pull the generator apart inside the enclosure, I'd suggest removing the radiator housing as an assembly, then you can take the engine and generator out as a unit and separate them once they're out. The radiator housing is only held in by about 6 bolts, it comes out easy at this point.

If you test with the resistor connected on both ends you your meter will find the resistance of the lowest Ohm path between your leads, which may not be through the resistor you're trying to test. To get a true reading of the resistor, it's best to disconnect 1 end to isolate it. Of course it's...

The TM will point you in the right direction, but nothing beats the wealth of hands on knowledge available on this amazing site! Good luck, clean and exercise the switches and test it again!

I'm sure it can be unbolted the resto of the way and palletized and shipped, but I unbolting was a little bit of a problem on the other one. What happened was that many of the nut inserts holding the panels into the shape of a box spun when trying to remove the bolts, so I ended up cutting the...

Since you have a working machine already, you can compare the feel of the linkage ( with the fuel solenoid manually pulled back ) between your good machine and #2. You will know right away if a metering pump is hung up. Linkage movement will feel completely different.

I have them if you still need them, just let me know. They are still on the rods.

I've got an 003 ASK up here in RI. It would need some new insulation and some paint work, but I had done a full restoration on its brother ( I bought a trailer with a pair of 6 hour 003AASK's on it) a few years back and it came out pristine! I've even got the full set of stencils around here...

I've used a lot of ebay gasket kits and oversized Pistons from Mayi Diesel. For bearings I found Lister Petter bearings on Ebay.UK You an also try getting them right from Cummins on line, might depend if you end up having to cut the crank or if standard bearings are ok.

It has to come out if you plan on replacing the main bearings. It uses these split ring housings for the mains which require the crank to be pulled out from the rear of the engine to access the main bearings. I have honed the cylinders out and changed rod bearings with the engine in place, but...

Not to be the bearer of bad news, but cyl. looks pretty bad. Being pitted like that I suspect you have either low compression in that cyl or perhaps no fire at all. I know you're pressed for time, but if it was mine I would just bite the bullet and go completely through the motor. I've actually...

Head gaskets are easy! Your first attempt should only take about 3-4 hours tops. After doing a handfull of them I was at about 40 minutes to tear one down and maybe an hour 1/2 to reassemble. Just don't get too excited to crank it up, pay attention to the lifter bleed down procedure after...

I 2nd the use of an epoxy. Epoxy has great adhesion to bare metal as well as painted metal and will be your most moisture resistant primer, if left without top coating. I once stripped a 78 Camaro to bare steel, 1 coat of Dupont DP40LF epoxy primer, then it sat out in the weather for years with...

One thing that may clarify things for you too is that as mentioned earlier, the GFCI plug and K1 get their power from the same place. If your GFCI was working but K1 wouldn't close and the light not illuminate, has nothing to do with anything you did holding or not holding the S1 switch. Same...

It will have to be Lunch then.... with your brewing background I suspect any beer I could offer you from America would rate somewhere between inferior and insulting. possibly even undrinkable! rofl

Check the large wires going into and out of K1, especially the ones leaving K1 and going to the lugs. Where the wires bend and go around the corner of the sheet metal they will sometimes wear through the insulation and short to the chassis. Perhaps K1 was sticking and you freed it up, only to...