Search results

Another thought is: I've had a few 802's and 803's with the arctic heater kits in them, but there is no need for them anywhere near me, so I removed them and sold them as a complete kit. To put it back to original I removed the modified freeze plug and put a normal one back in it's place...

If you look at the area near the coolant temp sensor, many machines have a hose fitting that is capped off, I believe that would serve as a feed line out, then the fitting in your lower radiator hose could be your return. Just have to check your machine, some have rubber caps on the fitting and...

I'm curious about this project as well. I have to wonder IF the engine would actually run too cool or not regardless of how you extracted the heat, as long as you leave the thermostat in place and use only the radiator / hose portion of the generator for the hydronic supplement. I would think...

LITD is correct, that synchronizer allows you to set the phasing of 2 machines in sync ( or very close ) then shift the load on the fly. They are not set up to run 2 units in parallel. A few guys on the internet show that it can physically be done, but the 5K and 10K machines are not designed to...

Another option might be to use the engine and swapping out the inverter and alternator for a 4500W generator head, @kloppk used to sell a kit to do so, but I believe he recently posted the info on where yo source the generator itself and I believe he still sells the electronic pieces necessary...

Not the first time I've seen that. Years ago there were a whole slew of rolling 803's at auction up at Ft. Bragg and all of them had the tags ripped off. I also got a few elsewhere where the tags had been cleanly removed by drilling the rivets out, someone planned to reuse ( or sell ) those tags...

Once you get the linage sorted out, if the issue remains, refer back to post #8 I still think you should verify the governor droop setting before you go any further. Start by checking the easy stuff, then if that fails, go in deeper!

You guys are misunderstanding how that lever works. It's not part of the governor control system, it's the fuel on/off lever and only has 2 positions, full counterclockwise against the stop screw for fuel OFF and full clockwise against the other ( lower ) stop screw for fuel ON. It does no move...

It probably has no effect related to his problem, but you're right, something is wrong with the way the FSS arm is bolted on. Should be a single bolt ( usually with a black knob on the nut ) that's free to slide in the slot. That thing looks like it's got 2 bolts in it. As long as the lever if...

Just a couple more questions, was there a load on the generator in the beginning of the video? If so, how much? The load meter was reading zero and I could hear the same cyclical engine sound both before and after you hit the circuit interrupt switch. Also, there was no change in HZ reading so I...

Look at the face of the meter, I believe the lower right side, you should see something that says FS XXXXX That will tell you what the meter is looking for signal wise for a "Full Swing" of the needle. If I recall, the 003A uses a DC mA signal perhaps 100 or 200 mA but its listed on the face of...

I'm hoping that by "Idle" you mean running at operating speed, but at no load? That is fairly Typical of a machine with an oversensitive governor. They do tend to start normally and run fine when "cold" then start acting up when they are at operating temperature. Usually you see the issue more...

Very strange, it sounds like it's surging rapidly, like the governor droop setting is too sensitive, but I don't really see any swing on the Hz meter, unless the fluctuation is too fast for the gage to react?? I'd read the TM and look at the droop adjustment procedure, there's a hex key...

Rick, FYI the one LITD linked to above is the same one I had mentioned in my P.M. I've used a few of them in the past, you just need to drill new mounting holes in the control cube to mount it, works fine.

Even if it didn't run it would still be worth way more than the asking price!

Agreed... I had one that looked like he got dropped on the leg and shattered the cast iron plate with the thread in it. My only option to repair ended up being to buy an Acme thread nut, weld it to a piece of 1/4" plate drilled and cut to size to fit into the tube and pin in place like the...

In that case you hammer action had to have done something else to "fix" a bad connection somewhere. The fuel level sensor has absolutely no ability to disconnect 24V power from the control panel, so I think you just got lucky, but perhaps only temporary.

You will find a lot of posts on here about crankcase pressure, especially on the 802 where people think they have pressure based on feeling air coming out of the oil cap or dipstick tube, but the only way to tell for sure is to measure it with a manometer because the 802 can be very deceiving. A...

Off hand I don't recall if that is a 1/4 NPT or a 3/8" NPT thread, but it's one or the other. Probably 1/4" NPT I'd bet. If you look down low under the crank pulley there is a drain plug in the bottom of the block pointing forward towards the radiator. That one is a 3/8" NPT, for comparison.

Ok, so that would mean that you had 24V DC at the panel, you just couldn't start it because the low fuel fault should have been illuminated. Were you getting a fault light when trying to start it? Also, in a low fuel scenario typically the machine would start briefly then shut down within a few...