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the downshift trick (same goes with multifuel deuces) is take 5H to 4H as normal but then you avoid the 4th/3rd hole by hitting 5H , drop the transfer into neutral, double-clutch the rpms up and slide transfer into low range cleanly. . Then you're in 5L which is faster than 3H.. You have...

Oh there's more gears to choose from than we actually need.. Once a driver learns how to use the shift points (per the dash tag) and use both the high and low sides of the transfer case when pulling heavy loads, the dreaded "3rd-4th hole" of the overdrive spicers can be avoided, . Depends on...

2: that's one of the things the hand brake is handy for . 26001# and up is the magic number regardless whether a vehicle has air brakes or not . The M39-series and M809-series are considered hydraulic brakes although federalization was supposed to make all the rules standard in all states ...

1: onboard air will do the job for brief bursts .. you are better-off with a 3/4" impact , a fast powerful burst to break them free .. A 1/2" impact requires a lot more patience and sometimes will not break some of the nuts free no matter what 2: rolling backwards or forwards "a couple...

even better !

going all the way back to my AIT-engineer heavy transport days (before i went into armor) , i always liked the tailgate options provided by the M51's and M817s of that era , and the fact one (strong) man can move the tailgate into each of the positions by himself when out on field projects we...

END673, or ENDT ? if the END (non-turbo) , does it have the downspout exhaust? I have personally only seen two like that and driven one of the two .. It appears in my icon

a grinder, stick welder, and some nickel rod will have that fixed good and strong in 30 minutes or less i have a few of those levers but they are with complete box/hoist assemblies for future sale :(

please don't forget rolling backwards in neutral is also a no-no for the sprag ;) i know you know this , but the poster needs to understand the sprag poppet is activated by the transmission lever reverse position and by its neutral position.. Neutral position takes care of the fwd gears by...

this is an old thread but i might as well jump in too .. i have a oe331 as well, is still in late-50's M35, it was a runner but needs a head gasket in order to run now.. was rebuilt in the 70's .. also some NOS parts incl radiator and engine castings .. if anyone interested i will pay my dues...

yep sounds like a popped button in the HH.. many of us have been there and the time it takes to fix something that small and simple sucks. .. Before tearing into the HH, there's one check that can be done which follows; try loosening your injector line nuts a couple turns and loosen any...

i wonder why the gov't likely spent stupid $ on those electronic flashers, when a simple SAE 24VDC mechanical cylindrical-type flasher housed in a weatherproof metallic or non-metallic box w/ removable cover and gasket-based cannon plug in a knockout (or cast/moulded theaded hub) would've done...

and you would 've been 110% correct ! i had hoped it would've been you to be the first to pipe in with an answer, but not the last ! :ROFLMAO:

i can hear michael now.. "What a suuuper idea for a skit! " :ROFLMAO: and after your skit, cue John to say his infamous "different" line , and camera pan to clinto and marchplumber working on their home-made flasher boxes wearing ,,, wearing what? ,, or not :D

yes bad .. i would be curious though if you kept it powered up awhile whether or not it would start flashing on its own .. it might, it might not .. i always thought individual electronic components inside an assembly could only be good or bad, and not intermittent .. But i've seen some of...

I've noticed with a bad flasher that sometimes the appropriate pair of lights comes on but does not flash ,, and other times nothing comes on at all a trick i learned some time ago was put it in the 4-way position and let it sit that way while you do your pretrip, or are puttering around in...

I always had 50-50 success brazing cast iron cracks and breaks, and brazing it is very time consuming.. About 35 years ago i learned Nickel Rod is a very good friend to have with your arc welding supplies.. Expensive but it does the job well and it's strong .. I use an old-school typical...

as far as military or farm or commercial engines go, I use 10W-40 in three items i use year-round.. But with everything else that's also dated pre-1975 i stick to what's in the manuals or on the dash tag or on the LO .. This means 99% of my stuff is SAE-30 .. (SAE-40 if the engine is very worn)...

i am unsure of exact location on the multifuels but i would start looking on the outer left frame rail under the left front fender .. search the forums here and you will find the database and perhaps the exact location

i drove a western star for a few months that needed two of those for lack of power ,,, but the floor was too thick for the 2nd one to do any good