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Installing a 4k RPM C60 tach, and according to https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/factory-tach-install-will-it-work.100057/post-2179753 " When you wire in the tach, do not tap into the ignition 12+ wire in dash wiring harness, when the glow plugs cycle, it kills power to the dash, so the tach...

Earlier this year I started work on swapping an NV4500 into my M1008. I found that there was a lot of threads about this but very few went into all the details with the info I needed. This thread will not really go into details either, as erasedhammer already did an amazing write up in his...

Can anyone confirm the number of teeth in the np208 drive gear for a 1008? I'm pretty sure it's 15 and it's the same for a 1008 and 1009 but I want to make sure. Edit: did some more math, pretty certain its a 15 tooth drive gear. I pulled a 44 tooth driven gear out. Looks like the math checks...

93 NV4500 into an M1008. I went with the bell housing, hydraulic linkage bracket, clutch, pressure plate, and slave cylinder as recommended from Advance Adapters here: https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/712577--chevy-v8--v6-engine-to-the-1993-95-gm-nv4500-5-speed-adapter-bellhousing-kit/...

I have a loosey-goosey wiring dangling right around where the driver side alternator was that I can't locate on the wiring diagram. It's a small wire with a small ring terminal on it, black with white stripe. It's not the tach sense wire, too small to be the ground wire, not part of the two wire...

Getting ready to swap an NV4500 in and it seems it would be a lot easier if I could remove the transmission hump. My truck has bedliner on the floor so I cant see it clearly, but from photos online it looks like the cover is just stuck on with sealant and should be able to be removed?

Taking a small utility trailer down to NC and back around July 4th and I'll have a little bit of space available if it can be of use to anyone. I gotta swap a transmission while I'm down there but if you need something hauled let me know and maybe we can work it out. It is a small trailer and it...

Leaving dallas headed east with a fully loaded m1028 pulling a loaded m101a2. Truck makes sounds like when you drive over the rumble strips whenever I let off the throttle at highway speeds. Otherwise only does it down to about 45 mph then other stops. Going to continue east,don't have time to...

Today I took a fully loaded M101A2 for a 15 mile round trip, fully loaded (2250 lbs) and when I got back I checked the hubs as I had just installed new bearings. They were quite warm. Not too hot to hold on to but almost. In my experience, this is not a good sign. I went home and double checked...

Found these stuck to the magnet of the front diff: Everything else in the carrier looks fine. I don't see anything out of place. Any ideas what it could be? I'm not sure if I will have the time to get parts in before we hit the road (we're moving).

Recently got a new set of BFG All Terrain KO2 285/75-16 tires and wanted to find the ideal tire pressure for when the truck is empty. I used chalk, marked across the tread, and then drove it for a few revolutions of the tires. Inspect the chalk, and get it to wear off evenly across the tread...

I was planning on building some wood sides for the 1008 anyways, and then I got to thinking... and then I got to measurin.... Pretty sure the trailer boughs and cover can be made to work on the pickup without too much difficulty. Note that I'm not trying to adapt the trailer sides to the truck...

After the engine is warm, placing the truck in park results in the idle slowly creeping up a few hundred RPMs. When the engine is cold it doesn't do this. I've been told this is a sign of air leaking into the IP. Considering when parked for a little bit there is air coming out the return line...

Getting ready to do a whole bunch of cooling system upgrades and repairs and one of the new parts is a HMMWV crossover. The one I ordered is basically a brand new take off and in excellent condition. The thermostat part number is 12559337. The CUCV thermostat that I ordered has part number...

I got this supposed M101 rear stabilizer leg and I'm starting to doubt its really for an M101. First off its about perfect height when fully retracted but that's it. Secondly the inner bracket with the pin to hold the leg up when it is stowed is too tall to fit between the rail. Is this really...

I think my rear railing barn doors are a bit off or something. The driver side panel doesn't have any notches cut in the locking pin hole, preventing the pin from the passenger side gate from going in fully. Is this normal or is my passenger gae funky?

Cant find the Monroe 32283 shocks anywhere it seems. Oreilly's can get KYB 344428 but they're the same price as the Napa 76992 at $50/each. Anyone got a line on some less expensive shocks?

As you may know, the alternators on our trucks (AC Delco 27SI units) have an RPM output signal, which on GEN 1 is hooked up to a buffer circuit and then output to the STE/ICE diagnostic connector under the dash. So far I've been unable to get a useable signal from pin c on the diagnostic...

After doing my 12 volt conversion I wanted a way to isolate the batteries when the truck was off so I installed a 200 amp solenoid between the front and rear batteries. It was switched on as soon as the truck was so that both batteries would help start the truck and then get charged back up...

Just a quick thought the other day. It would be nice to have switchable 12/24v where you can parallel the 12v batteries or series them for 24v if you wanted to slave someone or be slaved yourself. It would also be handy if you ever needed to do some emergency welding. The circuit I've attached...