Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
With the light switch off, and the ignition switch off there shouldn't be any current flow. The cutout relay should be open in the regulator when the engine isn't running thereby isolating that circuit.
Follow procedure on page 2-40 of the TM.
Here is a link to the manual if you haven't found it already.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?83365-TM-s-for-the-M37
You need TM9-2320-212-20 for these tests.
You have the adapter. Full field the generator and see if it doesn't come to life. Follow the procedure in the TM.
Then check the brushes. The genny is pretty bulletproof.
The adapter sets come up for sale quite often. I have a spare set I was going to sell at the next swap meet in Jan. They are common enough I've ended up 4 sets in the last few years.
Working on rebuilding the steering box. May need a new housing. Power washed the frame. Started fabricating a differential spreader so I can install the Power-Lok.
Drained the fuel tank into my M37 so I can pound the dents out of it. Made some of the parts to repair the remote control.
If you have spark while trying to restart it isn't electrical.
Spark, fuel compression. Something isn't right.
Sounds like heat soak and flood.
Put a REAL pressure regulator on the fuel line ahead of the carb. That little round thing everyone sells ISN'T a good choice.
Holley makes a 3lb...
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!