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Gal, I didn’t hook up an rpm signal input. It is not a required for the US Shift installation. You don’t get the learning capability of the controller. I planned to go back and figure out a signal (my 6.5l has an oil pump sensor) but 18 months later and it drives just fine, so never got around...

I just added a switch to ground the ‘trigger’ wire, but have not had a chance to verify it. Waiting for my speedometer back from Speedhut to take a test ride.

I used a US Shift Quick 4 and have not used any other controller, so my comments should be taken as such. In my reading prior to going with the Shift, I was leaning towards TCI, but a couple of posts (not just HMMWV, but CUCV guys) did have issues with the TCI. That pushed me to the slightly...

Do you mean a Cargo Cover? I am still running a soft top, but plan on building a hardtop this summer. I just got a cargo cover and put it on for the winter.

If money is tight, sell the 4 speed shifter and modify the 3 speed for $20 to work with the 4 speed.

But a high dollar build with stronger parts and a tv cable that needs proper adjustments or you rebuild the transmission again. 4L80e is the way to go for HMMWV.

Did the swap in October. My thread might be useful https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/4l80e-and-np241c-upgrade.192064/#post-2250920

I did this modification yesterday, with the arm was still mounted, but a piece of plywood protecting the glass. Started grinding the rivets, but once I got them smooth, they were being stubborn. Then while holding up the new wiper, I decided, just cutting off the old bracket at the end of the...

I bought my truck with both soft and X doors. After 7 months, I can tell you, it is very unlikely the soft doors will ever go back on. X doors are silly in pricing, but I a very happy I purchased them.

I haven’t done anything towards producing them. My next step is to work on getting a shift indicator 3D printed. The modification really was very simple, especially to someone who can change out a transmission. For those on a budget, this is the way to go.

The Chinese factory likely confused 350HZ and 350DB!

Can you read the wire labels? Did you test for voltage with light switch in service drive?

Snap shot from TM

Wire 26a is 24+ power to the horn, wire 25a is the horn button, which grounds the circuit. You need to figure out how to make the horn button ground to activate the horn.

Good catch- I had a 2 where a 3 should have been. I fixed it.

No, Internal combustion engines are air pumps at their core. Each stroke of a piston can only suck so much air. The numbers I listed above assume perfect flow, which is unattainable, but what we use to help size systems (exceptions include injectors, then we really do need the volumetric...

Non turbo has same cfm through entire rpm range unlike gasoline engines. Assuming 100% volumetric efficiency, 218cfm at 2000 and 328 at 3000. .11 cfm per rpm

This was an '88 that had a GEP 6.5L & the new parking brake done by the Government at some point. I am not sure which fuel tank I have, I can't tell by looking at it underneath which style it is. I am also unsure which wire harness I have, but the engine harness was P/N 12339350 (I had a bad...

My Actual issues: TPS: What a huge pain in the ass! The back bolt that held the fan cut out switch in place was so ****ed hard to do. Just had to keep at it, re-install was a joyous PITA too! I ended up super gluing the washer to the head to allow hand turning the bolt...

Transmission & Transfer Removal: · Disconnect Battery, Install tire blocks · Remove transmission ATF (I used vacuum syphon), kept oil in X-Fer · Remove Rear Drive shaft (4- 15mm heads rear, 5/16 head front) · Remove exhaust cross pipe (9 bolts- 9/16 heads, both...