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After spending too much time on this, I think it's all rubbish. I don't think the M1009 can delete the reducer. The lowest we can go, I believe, is 34 teeth which will indicate 73 mph at 60 mph actual.

Referencing https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/speedometer-adapter-assy-6-m1009.70087/ I've been bouncing this off of ChatGPT trying to get the current part numbers, most of which are wrong. What I find interesting is that it made the recommendation of just removing the adapter box and...

It looks like the updated PN may be 88959481. Still trying to confirm.

See above. There is some kind of horrific graphite lubricant gunk in the reduction box that is likely 40 years old. I'm considering pulling off that unit, disassembling it, and throwing it in my ultrasonic cleaner. At this point I'm not focused on an accurate speedo, but my questions now are...

Apologies. It's an M1009 and it does have a reduction box on the side of the xfer case. I missed the intent of the original reply. Just assumed I had mentioned M1009.

I rebuilt some stuff in the gauge cluster, including a new speedo. I lubricated the cable, reconnected it, then took a test drive. The needle was bouncing then stopped completely. When I inspected the cable, it was knotted up at the xfer case side, and it was really difficult to remove. I'd...

Does anyone have any recommendations for part numbers for replacing the speedometer cable and the gear on the transfer case? I am running 33's with stock differential gears. Edit: this is an M1009.

Thanks again to everyone. I was just able to pull the lock and install the new one. In my case, I used a narrow flathead in the slot on the top left while jiggling the key and it walked right out. Now I'm just waiting on the 7830377 screw to arrive from the Ebay vendor and I can put...

Thanks all for the feedback. I want to save something here. I think ChatGPT hit a home run. For our non-tilt steering wheels, it appears that GM P/N 7830377 should be the correct retaining pin, with no spring required. I'm going to pull out the old one, use the new style, and hopefully this...

I've found that most of the M1009 owners have the newer models with the forward radio mounts. Unfortunately, mine seems to be a very early one. Apparently I got some leftover parts.

Yes, absolutely. That's when the cheapo cast cover broke off. What I'm trying to explain is that I think there were two versions of the lock cylinder. Some if the 84's apparently have this style. I do not have the pin nor the cover screw that most of them have.

There was nothing in that hole. In my case I think this is the older 70's style release that is farther back. Honestly if I don't figure this out in the next couple of days I'm gonna jam a small screwdriver in the back slot and liberally apply the slide hammer.

I currently have the exact same issue except your 1984 is a LOT cleaner than mine.

I am replacing some parts in my M1009 steering column and while I'm in there I wanted to replace the lock cylinder to one that doesn't have the universal CUCV key. Also, I pretty much have to now as the face of it just broke off as I was trying to remove it. What is the trick to get it to...

I've sorted out a lot of things on my M1009 over the past couple of years. I would like to put a fluiddampr on it sometime this fall. I have done dampers before, but with the engines out of the bay. I'll be doing this one in my driveway, unfortunately. What needs to be removed to do this job...

I realized yesterday that I seated the seal on the back of the rotor too far down. Should have been flush. It still has plenty of clearance from the bearing so I'm going to live with it for now, but I'm kicking myself after getting everything else right.

Coming back to this issue. I finished rebuilding the driver's side and moved on to the passenger's side today. Things are going much faster now that I know what to do. I just pulled out the short half shaft and sure enough, the u-joint is locked up on one axis. The locking hub was...

Thanks for the screen cap. It's interesting how that order of operations is completely different than what I saw everywhere else.

I think it's the right size but the taper it's mating with is now nice and greasy. I really don't want to push directly on the ball joint with a jack but that may be where this is headed. That would put a lot of pressure on the c-clip.

I was hoping to get a quick win after work today by installing my steering knuckle with the new ball joints. No dice. The lower ball joint is just spinning in it's assembly. I can't torque it. I tried using a jack and a cylinder from my press kit to push up on the knuckle without damaging...