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Have an M1009. I have a similar start then die issue. Recent Standyne rebuild on the IP. It was leaking at the throttle shaft. It has had the cold start issue for some time, starts, then RPM zooms up then dies. Figured air in the system but all rubber lines under the hood are new. It was OK...

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The ones in AK had both and other things as well. Heating the water jacket warms the heads and oil passages and the oil returns. And it need not be used all night. The pan heater on mine, from AK, is hot enough I hate plugging it in. Synthetic oil is a really good idea too.

I assume you have never looked into synthetic oil. A good synthetic like Amoil's 5w30 diesel oil will flow at temps as low a -50f and the 0w40 at -54f. Kerosene, as an example will not flow, I have read, at -50f. Even in warm weather synthetic oil will bypass the filter less than dino oils so...

And if you live in an area with salt or other ice melters on the roads only drive it when the roads are dry. Where I live its not common. But there is one road in the area that gets sprayed year round with, I believe, Calcium Chloride. Which is going to at best hold moisture on the metal parts...

First define cold. I sometimes can get to -30/-40 where I live but under -30 is rare. Frost plug heater, Amsoil 0w40/5w40/10W30 Synthetic Diesel oil. Run Synthetic EP gear oil in the diffs and Dexron 6 in anyplace that needs ATF. In AK they had frost plug heaters, oil pan heaters, battery...