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Thank you to everyone who has stuck with me thus far. BLUF: I have 240v power again!!! My switch was mounted to the control box by four screws coming into the interior of the control box from the front of the generator unit, and what appeared to be two screws that entered from the rear of the...

OK i've got some contact cleaner and i've removed the TB1 load board so i have good access to the switch now. I see two nuts facing the front of the output box, on the left and right side of the wafer switch. These are the only two i can loosen up without remove nuts or bolts that hold the...

I had a relay one time, 12v, that would show continuity across the load terminals with contactor voltage applied, and show open with no contact voltage. I spents days tracing problems in that circuit until i came back to the Relay and just swapped in a different relay to test the rest of the...

Yes you are correct. When i restarted the gen all was back to (sub) normal performance and i had ~65v at the output lugs. I looked over the wiring diagram and did not see a TB that would have allowed me to get readings on X1A8, X2A8 or X3A8. Where would that terminal board be located? Is...

I've tested the breaker and it correctly shuts off the power to L1 and L3 when it is moved down. Other than that the only thing i could attempt for that is to try and remove it from teh cabinet and replace it with a brand new breaker. It is really really tight in there and i was not able to...

I'll begin working on the switch and see what i can accomplish in terms of loosening it up to move again. Is there a video or pictures on another thread anywhere where someone has gone through this before?

Ok so i checked the three wires as best as i could. I was able to find the terminal for X1 and i think X3 on S6. Both of these registered the same ~65 volts that i was getting on the L1 and L3 lugs. X2 was completely unreachable without removing S6 from the control cabinet which i did not...

Thanks Triple Jim! My selector switch is stuck in the 120/240 single phase mode, and that is new since the power was sent through the gen. But @Guyfang did walk me through testing the actual connections on that switch and the voltage was low even on those terminals. My selector switch is...

@Guyfang just wanted to give you a gentle nudge and see if you had any ideas where i should go next? :)

Thats kind of along the lines of where i was thinking, but i have no experience with transformers at all. Could be that anything out of spec from a resistance perspective is indicative of large scale performance changes. I'm getting close to the point of just going out to buy a name brand new...

Ok, finally got enought time when the weather cooperated to get back into the transformer checks. Here are my readings: CT1 1A-2A .5 Ohms 1B-2B .4 Ohms 1C-2C .5 Ohms CVT1 C1-C2 9.3 Ohms X1-X2 1.9 Ohms X2-X3 1.8 Ohms X3-X1 1.9 Ohms H1-H2 1.8 Ohms H3-H4 1.8 Ohms H5-H6 2.1 Ohms So clearly...

Unfortunately, i left my working output box in my other pants :ROFLMAO:. I'm still learning the lingo so i'm assuming CT is current transformer. Is there a simple way to test the raw output of the generator, without having a known good output box? Simultaneously, i can work on checking out...

Ok so i'f i'm getting ~60v on each leg now, does that mean applying 24v on those pins should bump it up to 120v? Also, which pin shoudl ahve the + and the - for the 24v?

@Guyfang or anyone else still tuning in, what else can i check? Does the low voltage on TB3 Pins 5 and 6 indicate another component that should be tested? Could i hook up a constant voltage power source to those pins and see if that improves the output on L0,1 & 3? I have 2x12v server power...

I did originally measure at terminals 3 and 5, and i also measure with the engine runnign and the S1 switch in the "Prime and Run position." Several days later I realized my mistake when I was reading back through all the responses as well. I redid the measurement across the correct terminals...

I was able to test all six diodes without removing any additional covers. I did it by bumping the starter switch and letting the spinning set come to rest until i could reach each one. Three of them correctly passed current from the wire to the threaded stud with no current flow the other...

That’s a great picture and helps clear up a few things for sure! To use your preferred method of removing those main bolts coupling the main gen end cover, does that require me to support that end bearing in any way or is it ok cantilevered like that just for the static tests we are talking...

I think my PDF pages numbers are slightly different, but on my page 149, Section II, 8-2, 3a, b, c and notes state the attached. I pulled the cover off and started looking for the diodes and took pictures of the diodes on the unit, and then i came back in and referred back to the manual to get...

I did not. I assume the rotating diodes are on the spinning part of the generator. Are there instruction in the TO on how to access them? Is it just removing a cover or do I have to remove other components to gain access to them?

Ahh ok. So I’m not sure where to go next in looking for the problem. Any ideas?