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That won’t affect the safety of anything or cause shorts or burning up of anything?

Is there a way to safely bypass the load box under the spare tire? Could I just connect to a boat load and battery together on the battery post and the same thing for 24?

It’s a 260Amp dual voltage Alt with regulator and the lights on the regulator. What trips me out is I’ve changed the components out with brand new or known good ones. The batteries I put in today were brand new out the box and charged. I ran the truck and it was at 26-27 sometimes charge on the...

Should I be disconnecting the wire on the regulators harness when supplying this voltage test? Meaning no wire attached then supply the 24v power ? I’m getting the 25.5-26.5 Ish from the 24v side on regulator Yeah I’ll check the ground strap and clean up the mounting points and see.

So jump from 24 side on batteries to the 24v terminal lug on the regulator? Leaving all the wires hooked up or disconnected? I jumped 24 v to the 24v lug on the regulator and no change. It’s very weird. I swapped LBCD with known good and no change. The green light on top the LBCD is green...

So jump from 24 side on batteries to the 24v terminal lug on the regulator? Leaving all the wires hooked up or disconnected? So jump from 24 side on batteries to the 24v terminal lug on the regulator? Leaving all the wires hooked up or disconnected?

It’s military so 4 batteries brand new Agm hawkers. Can’t run two due to military QC. And ok I’ll try the jumper 24v from batt to excite wire and see if I get voltage out the big lugs.

I swapped out a LBCD known good one from one that was working fine on another truck. No change. The terminals on the regulator on top of the ALT are putting out 13.5-14v charging on the 12v side and 25-26v charging on the 24v side. On the 24v gage in the cab it shows it hover into the yellow...

Superman .. need help. Have a m1088a1P2 and replaced Alt and regulator and all relays. My lights are rambler that batteries all tested good and I’m getting good charging on 12v side but the 24v side I’m sitting at 25-26 volts ? What would cause it to charge but not to 28v?

Superman .. need help. Have a m1088a1P2 and replaced Alt and regulator and all relays. My lights are rambler that batteries all tested good and I’m getting good charging on 12v side but the 24v side I’m sitting at 25-26 volts ? What would cause it to charge but not to 28v?

Is this a real answer or?... Ok where the heavy gauge wire 24v and 12v comes into the cab on the back side of the PDP in the cab are those the ignition relays? They have cables and each have two small wires coming from them?

Ok... now after putting the whole dash back together... I have ground at the ECM pin 70 where I should have switched power .. I had switched power to 70 before hang now I’m lost

If it starts by jumping the solenoid and the solenoid is brand new why wouldn’t it crank? Only think I can think is a shorted wire from the push button switch or bad ground as you stated

I’m beginning to notice how not simple this A1 is at the moment. Ok I have a computer I can hook up to it so let’s say I don’t see any codes and also I don’t see injector pulse but the ECM has power to the correct pins and ground to the correct pins.. what would be the issue or possible issue...

Yes 100% have 4 brand new batteries and after replacing the ECM have good power up to the hot post on starter solenoid, the reverse polarity box, 24 BAT and IGN , 12v BAT and IGN posts on distribution panel. When I run test leads to the other starter post and try to start the engine regularly...

Not at the truck at the moment but will check again for codes just to be sure and check the ground. It turns over when starter is jumped yes I didn’t hold it too long maybe just a few seconds though and it didn’t fire up. Been sitting a long time? So maybe it was or wasn't getting fuel to...

Where does the dash ground ? Is it grounder once mounted down or a certain wire I should check?

I’ve even changed out the TCM under the distribution panel with a known good one.. trans just shows N for neutral no codes as far as I can see..

New to this I apologize but I really need some help stranded here.. I have a M1078A1 that didn’t have power at all to the dash.. I replaced the ECM and now have power to the 24 and 12V side on the Power panel lugs. The solenoid jumps the started when jumpered and everything has power as it...