Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Ok. Pulled the instrument panel today to clean the circuit board. It was in pretty good shape, but I cleaned it anyway. The bulb on Gen 1 was good. I cleaned the connectors on the voltmeter gauge. It was in good shape, but I did it anyway. The Gen1 light came on when I turned they key. Yay. The...
o1951, thanks for the input. When I get a chance, I will try pulling the voltmeter off the dash and see what I get. Pulling it sounds like a PITA. lol. I will check all the grounds and post my final results.....again. Might be a few days. For now, she runs like a top, and it couldn't come at a...
Here is the final deal. It all appears to be the short pos cable to 24v bar on firewall that was the culprit. After replacing it and all the rest of the battery cables, she now seems to be running ok with no sparking. Its getting 14.6 volts on the rear battery, 14.4 volts on the front, with 29...
o1951, I will get more accurate readings of the batteries in tandem; I was just kinda ballparking it. I haven't checked since I put all new cables between the batteries and the buss bars on the firewall. I will probably get to that tomorrow or the next day..and I am not sure what you mean by...
Ok. When she is running, both batteries individually read 13+ volts on my voltmeter, and 25 when checking batteries in tandem. This tells me the alternators are charging them properly. With these readings, the volt gauge in the cab shows green, but just barely. I may replace the gauge and see...
Ok. After Action Review, AAR for short. She cranks up just fine for now after replacing that one cable. No more fireworks. I still need to track down why the voltmeter shows yellow on start up, as I think it should show green, then yellow when the gp's engage, then back to green. It does go to...
Update. After voltmeter-ing everything, I started replacing battery cables. I started with the one from the 24v buss bar to the rear battery, using one I had on hand. Although the volt gauge in the cab showed yellow, the **** thing started right up as if nothing had ever been wrong. I see your...
Tested the gpr.. With key off 12v to top post, the rest 0v. With key on 12v at all posts except the bottom post, and it had a reading that started at 15 and began counting down towards zero..but never made it there before I took the test lead off. Not sure what to make of that. While cranking, I...
Update. Last night I cranked it over, still got some sparks from rear battery pos post, but not as much. Then I noticed the wire with the fusable link going from rear battery negative post to diamond 12v by the gpr was hot to touch and smoking. This is new. The fusable link does not appear...
It appears to me that I have the isolated ground alternator on the passenger side, and correctly wired. Tonight, I pulled the glow plugs, hooked up the batteries as indicated, and was able to crank the motor without sparks and bleed the fuel, at least somewhat. Feeling upbeat, I placed new GP's...
Warthog, as far as moving the alternators, yes, I have. They were off the same motor, but were dismounted for a short period of time while I installed the motor. In looking further in many posts here at SS, I have seen where alternators can cause sparking on the rear battery. I do not recall...
The above pics should show enough details as to how I have things hooked up. It was this way when I had success turning it over without the sparks after tightening the loose doghead relay and the S wire from starter. Mystified.
I just attempted to make a video, but the Kansas sunset is just to powerful. I will get on this tomorrow morning and see what you all think. I do appreciate your help, but the video I just made is not of good quality. thanks...Jim
o1951,
I ran back and forth from computer to garage after reviewing your diagram. I have no reason to believe or suspect that the alternator wiring is wrong. From engine to chassis, I have all the straps and wires from the rear of the block to chassis. The NEG post rear battery also has a wire...
Ok. So...to follow up on my last communication.....
Today I got two new 1050 CCA batteries, type 31, to continue where I left off on my last post. I had tightened the doghead relay and S wire on the starter. My intent was, after having successfully cranked the motor with no fireworks at that...
Ok boys...here is what I did. I actually did have it all wired correctly, as far as what cables to what battery. However, I went back and checked ALL the connections and grounds. I found that when I did the doghead starter mod, the black (ground) wire was not crimped tightly enough, and very...
Well, hang on.....I'm getting my brain wires crossed too...I may have actually had them wired correctly...I need to seriously think about this and get back...won't be till Wednesday that I can have a better look...I'm so confused right now.
So after all the last minute hook ups on the motor I just installed, I attempted to start it up. There was a large spark from the rear battery positive post, and the starter did crank the motor, then click click click. I had just done the starter relay mod and the glow plug bypass prior. (as a...
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!