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My post was in regard to another thread that was useful being locked. I said it because this thread is also useful and informative. Nobody here did anything wrong. Sorry to cause confusion.

If it is anything like the original compressor, it will incorporate a metered orifice, just as Rustystud mentioned before. Lack of a metered orifice drops engine oil pressure and can flood the compressor with oil.

You can oil it with a line from a galley plug on the block...

Aaron, it'll be interesting to see if yours has the plugged oil galley entrance on the bottom or not.

Could be they took that part out of the design over time, or you may have gotten one that just doesn't have that port for one reason or another. I've heard a hundred different reasons for slight design changes from what the manual was written on. You can always plug the feed hole in the base and...

If I remember right, the point of using taper threads is so the end user can go to any hardware store and buy fittings of their choice to plumb it into the system, rather than having to order them. Taper fittings are available anywhere, and have proven to be fairly leak free on our trucks.

So how much is the new compressor? Pretty expensive yeah?

Thanks for that tidbit Chris. The tech sheet he posted says there is a plug to remove for bottom oil feed and drainback, but can be fed and drained from external lines by removing different plugs. 13 cfm would be enough to run a 1/2" impact continuously.

Right. I know the originals aren't water cooled. They just look quite similar. I hope it fits and works ok. That will be a great upgrade if so.

That bears a striking resemblance to the twin cylinder compressors that came on some multifuels... but I don't know the cfm rating on them.

A line spooler like that would be really nice for the Garwood 10k on the front of our deuces. I'd pay good money for one. Spooling the cable back in properly is such a pain, and even more so by yourself.

Yes, drill and tap for 1/8" npt to allow a variance of bleed screws to be used depending on the taste of the consumer.

I would advise making the filter bosses a 1"-14 thread. Lots of options for filter size and micron rating there, all the way down to 2 micron.

Thank god! Makes my life easier.

So, the threads in the booster pump housing are AN threads, not pipe threads?