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If it's the problem, there is a seal kit for the booster pump. Around $40 I think is what someone recently paid for one.

Yes but if I build a tool I don't have to mess with anything. And it satisfies my urge to build another custom tool to later forget why I built it. I seriously have a drawer full of custom made tools and I can't remember what half of them are for.

How many times you gotta adjust those things? I think I'm going to make a tool to grab onto the harmonic balancer nut without having to pull the radiator. These engines aren't hard to roll. Just not a good way to do it with everything in place.

I guess that's a matter of opinion. If I have someone to help me roll the engine over to line up the timing marks I can have an ip off in about 30 min. An hour if I'm by myself. This does depend on how hard it is to get the injector lines out of the hh. Which you would need to do to change...

You basically have 3 choices on how to deal with removing the booster pump. 1. Remove the entire injector pump. Probably the easiest method if you don't have a way to lift a 1600 pound engine. 2. Remove front and side motor mount bolts and lift the engine a few inches and then pull it...

Not true. The booster pump seal also has fuel on one side and oil on the other. The flame heater nozzle can also theoretically contaminate the engine oil but this is the least likely scenario.

The most likely cause of your oil contamination is either the hydraulic head o rings have failed, the booster pump seal has failed, and if you have one, the fuel density compensater could be leaking. None of these problems are terribly difficult to fix. If you have an fdc go ahead and bypass...