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If you want to run that motor a little longer, replace the one piston, hone the cylinder good. Put the new head on it and go. You will probably be a little low on compression in that cylinder. If you ultimately want another motor, see if you can return or sell the new head. Sell anything good on...

You can normally save a lot pulling it yourself. Most shops that pull them send them to an automotive machine shop that does the actual work on it. check your area for a machine shop to rebuild just the head. It does not take that much time to get it off but in mechanic hours it adds up fast...

you have a bad valve. you are getting blow back into the intake. pull the covers and look or do a compression test. looks like a head rebuild is needed. Rich

When you take the glow plugs out, it removes the compression from the engine. Making it easier on the starter and batteries. It will also allow you to test for compression in each cylinder. Just a finger test to see that the cylinder has some compression. You can test with a compression test...

When you posted you were going to swap it in the morning I thought you were talking about the fuel pump. Not the whole truck. At least the guy you bought it from is standing behind his sale. Not something many would do.

It would be pretty bad luck to get a bad one but it happens. Are you sure the plunger is in the block and it is working. I would think something pretty major would have to happen internally for the cam not to work the plunger but I suppose it could happen and the motor still turn over with...

I think that goes to the high idle solenoid. With the new pump, are you getting fuel pressure leaving the pump?

Mine have always fallen out. I have heard of them breaking before and getting stuck. Disconnect IP power wire and turn it over. It should fall out or push out enough to get ahold of it. not sure what the options are if it is broken and stuck.

Just open it at the fuel filter using the bleeder screw and it will prime itself. The hardest part is replacing it. There is a metal plunger that rides the cam between the pump arm and cam. when you take the pump off it will probably fall out. If it does not, check to make sure it is in...

yes, there is a metal line that runs up the engine and over to the filter, another metal line leaves the filter and runs under the manifold to the center connection of the IP. If you look under the manifold you see where the injector lines come out of the IP. The center one is the input from...

The hose connection is the intake and the threaded side is the output since it is the pressure side. The output side goes to the metal line and is a screw fitting. For ease of install use grease to hold the plunger in the block while installing the fuel pump and go ahead and put the metal line...

something has to be wrong with your fuel routing if you are getting fuel pressure on the return line. fuel has to go to the fuel pump, then to filter, then to IP, then to Injector and what is not used at the injector then gravity drains back to the fuel tank through the return line. The return...

sorry thought I had read in the thread that you had put on and electric pump. got it confused with other thread.

looks like you have your fuel lines crossed at the tank. The fuel should come from the line on top of the frame rail. When you put the electric pump on did you splice it into the return instead of the supply? or your pump is running backwards and somehow pressuring the tank.

I thought the fuel had to get to the injectors before it could get to the return line? I think you may have to get the line loose directly at the injector pump (under the intake manifold) to see if fuel is getting to the IP. If it is then remove glow plugs, crank motor while fuel lines to...

It should be working then. You may want to do a clean of the electrical system. 10V is not right at the GP's or the fuel shutoff valve. The low voltage could be just dirty connections. From the pics, thing you need to check is your fusable link from the batteries to the 12v bus connection...

one click for on, I do not think you hear anything when it shuts off. so each time you apply power it should click once. it has to stay on with power to keep the truck running. It is what turns the truck off.

you should be getting 12+, it should be the same as your front battery minus a small amount. Are you sure your batteries are good. Everything could be fine but if you do not spin the motor fast enough, it will not start. 700 CCA is little small for the truck, I believe they spec 1000 CCA. IF...

sounds like it is wired for 24, but you have a lot of extra battery cables going places that I do not believe is the stock wiring. check your shut-off valve on the IP. Will be pink wire plugged in just under the air cleaner. With the ignition on the wire should have 12V on it. You should here...

Questions from pics. Do you have 24V at the buss bar next to the fuel filter. It looks like to many + wires going to the front of the truck. You have the slave start plug which has a poss and neg to the buss bar. you have the rear batt. connection and then you should have another set of...