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The best way (IMHO): Cut out the rusted portion of the crack, fashion a backer plate of the same of heavier gauge steel, that is at least 2" beyond the area you cut out - weld in place. Carefull with cutting, sanding, welding around CARC...

Looks like a hand-crank klaxon (uh-ooga horn). Project is still looking great [thumbzup]

Looking very good [thumbzup]

A bandana works too for getting the snap ring of the window regulator crank. 2cents

If you read the lengthy explanation, you'll see that in a 24V system the resistor draws the upper 12V and the glow plugs draw the lower 12V, so doing a resistor bypass on a 12V only truck actually results in the exact same draw on that lower battery's power.

It's needed for 24V, not 12V. Lengthy explanation here. If it's still installed on a 12V system, your plugs will never burn out - of course they will be running at around 6V instead of 12V, so they'll never get to temperature either...

To do the test, take one wire from the test light and... WAIT... [TANGENT:] And that reminds me to make one caution... use your HF multimeter first in the 30V or higher setting - if your resistor pack is in place for 24V power supply to the glow relay, hooking up a 12V bulb to the unswitched...

Yes, any low wattage (<10W) lamp or even a light bulb with wire soldered to it will work. A test light illuminating demonstrates that there is enough voltage and current available between the two connection points to light up a bulb. HF multi-meter will work too. Let's back up a bit and talk...

Do you have a 12V test light?

Does it have the original box-type fuel filter on the firewall (prone to leak and losing prime)? Do you know if you have return fuel from the IP (shows that the lift pump is functioning)? Does the Injection Pump's (IP's) solenoid click when you plug unplug/plug-in the pink wire with the...