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Feet, not mm. 74M35's example looks scary....but everyone has some fantasy I guess.

Grendel, it will be a really handy trailer. It's incredibly strong and you have the fold down sides for better access at just the right height. Does your pickup have the pintle?? I like the long tongue even if M35 likes to make fun. I used the deuce for dump trailer because it has fixed...

You're paying too much

Yes Blake, I have used HardOx. I use it on the front of buckets and high wear areas to slow down the wear, not to put two pieces together. It has terrible shrinkage, so be careful if you are using it to hold things together. I run beads near the front edge and in an X pattern on the bottom...

I would imagine you put 6011 in that??? Have you welded on a 5 ton frame yet? Did you use 7018 or 9018? I think the high chrome content helps, but I have not welded directly to the frame of one. A 7018 3/32 could run a couple passes down inside the root and not get too hot, I would think.

I think it can be done but as always is about 2x or more the work we expect and it's easy to start cutting corners (those temporary fixes that become permanent). Making a policy to have significant safety margins may seem to complicate. Most of my work is for others as a sole proprietor. I...

Some say the 5 ton frame is hardened and the welding heat zone is weakened...I can't say one way or another, as I have not welded anything major on a 5 ton. Blake has experience. It looks like he's chasing a crack from ?ell.

So where are the comments about welding the 5 ton frame?

Yea, I noticed the pics of jack knife dumping...and most seem to use the truck hydraulics, so don't want to disconnect. But reading about the long tongues, there are some states with longer spacing requirements (bridges) that would be worth a look by anyone planning such a thing.

Having an M929 and M931, I don't have bumperetts to begin with and on my A3 deuce, they are coming off. I pull my M1061 with the type of A frame that you talk about and I find myself, when backing and turning tight, wondering if the gusset by the bed is about to snag a tire lug or tire grab...

Then make a long tongue from box tube 5x5x1/2" thick or so and don't start the A frame until it's far enough to clear at 90*. Guessing you want to leave the 14' bed in place. A 20' bed would be 6' in front of the 14's spot, not much overhang on the rear.

Good firewood haulers FBWT! I've used F350 frame with duals and they track very well. I have a bus F450 (extra wide) that may be donor with an LMTV bed Picture. So yea....I think rear clips make great trailers...especially dumps. A 20'er would be really cool and your frame may be long...

I was thinking the best place to come off for a rear hydraulic drive is the transfer case...then realized the RPM is nothing when you really need it, slow and steady. Same problem with hooking to rear drive shaft.

Covers for removing the axles are relatively easy to make from dished steel air tank heads and a flange. Then if you want to power it, put them back in.