Search results

That one about fried my brain. Its not easy to troubleshoot by proxy.

One down at least. :) You're welcome.

I kept going over the wiring diagram and looking for places where power could be injected into the "RUN" circuit. After we had exhausted component failures I figured it had to be a wiring error. Also since you indicated that the voltage was present only while the engine was running and not when...

Ok. You are on the right track now. Cross your fingers that a simple wire swap fixes this problem.

I'll have to go lookup the output terminals on the alternator. There may be a combination of wires that would do that. Were each of the wires on the alternator landed on different terminals?

The exciter wire is a smaller gauge than the power output wire. Make sure the smaller wire is on the EXC terminal and the larger wire is on the + terminal.

Woohoo! Friggin finally. My gut feeling is that its wired up wrong. I bet someone swapped the output and exciter wires. Did your charge indicator work? It should show in the green when the unit is running.

Ok. This should do it then. Disconnect all the wires from the alternator and make sure they aren't touching anything. I think either your regulator is bad or someone wired up the alternator wrong. Don't let any of the wires touch either other. Start it up then try to shut it down with S1.

OK. Same thing but pull K15.

Do you know which relay is K16? I would like you to start the unit then turn S1 to OFF. Next, remove K16 from its socket. See if it shuts down.

I'm looking at the documents now.

Hm.. Wonder if its the starter lockout switch.

Knowing what it isn't is important. :) One step closer to finding the problem.

I'm trying to figure the best route to eliminate A2. Since I don't know all the failure modes for that device I'm just guessing. If CB1 shuts it down it we may be looking at a power leak on A2. If CB1 shuts it down the next step will be to lift the wire going to Term 4 on A2. So far I feel...

You're welcome. We will get this figured out. I also think we need to revisit the first set of reading now that you have the correct pin-out of the diagnostic port. I still think the problem is with the starter solenoid.

OK. Have you tried pulling CB1 out with S1 off and the engine running?

Another question, all the gauges continue to read correct values when S1 is off and the engine is running?

Download this one from the tech manual section and check out page 107. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=601961&d=1451935825

If you have some alligator clip wire jumpers I would recommend that you shut the engine down and remove the wires from terminal 3 on S1. Put the wires together on one end of the clip and clip the other end to terminal 3 on S1. Tape up that end so it stays together and doesn't short against...

See if this helps.