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Zip, Compleatly different gen set. Compleatly different parts. The light bulbs on the control panel are the same. Thats about it.

I always tried to do it that way, to save driving 100's of klicks, but mostly, it is simply easier, faster and more educating, (for both of us!) to be on the spot. If I could do it, great! If not, well, I love to drive but was doing about 3000 klicks a week, AND 8-10 hours a day working. Driving...

Looking good, looking good!

If the wire is on the wire terminal, it could be back feeding to the wire going to S-1, pin 3. You said that wire was hot when disconnected from S-1. Also, pin r on the J3 diagnostics canon plug is hot with the S-1 turned off. That's not right. I explained it in message # 81. The voltage is...

Disconnect the canon plug to A-2 and try and starting and stopping.

You know, wire 137N goes from S-1, pin 3 to TB6-4. Splits off, and one wire goes to M5, (fuel indicator) neg side. Another wire goes from the TB6-4 to J3, (diagnostic cannon plug) pin r. And the last wire goes to TB5-11, then on to P4-14 on the A2 (malfunction indicator). Could the fault...

The wire to pin 7 is for excitation voltage. If you took of the wire to pin 3, and it didn't stop, you need to see why. Somehow, the run circuit is staying energised. Tell, me, did you measure from wire 137N to ground when it was removed? When removed, it should be without voltage. If it had...

Start the set normally. Hold the S-1 up to get the fields to flash. When you have AC voltage on the meter, (Still holding S-1 up!!), then turn S-7, (battle short) on. Let S-1 return to the run position. Do any of the fault light come on?

I second the motion for CT-Mike. Just keep in mind, the hour meter is not written in stone. Break. Triton. When you say "Checked the 4 K relays and they seem to be switching correctly", Just how did you test them? Or just eyeball them? I possible, get someone to help you in this endeavor...

Triton, J and P are canon plug, or other types of plugs. The ends. For instance, P-14 is the plug on the fuel cut off solenoid. The corresponding end on the branched wire harness is J-14. Just keep in mind that the plugs on the branched wire harness are ALWAYS a J. Another tip. Any wire...

This is where I should say to you, "Read the manuals!" But, being a nice, harmless old man, I will tell you. Take off the rear, top of the set. Remember, the control panel end of a gen set is ALWAYS the rear. You have to remove the control panel cover, (door) at the same time. In the space...

Trition, You just need the schematic. As long as you know the plug and pin numbers, you do not have to see the wire numbers. When you say you disconnected the starter solenoid, just what did you do? Did you disconnect all the wires to L-4 Start solenoid, (mounted on the starter)? Or just...

If you can not get the GFI to reset, or even move the reset button, then in all probability, its broke. The old style also had an in line fuse, but your most likely, is a newer type. But in any case, if the reset doesnt move, its broke.

Way to go Lonesouth! You guys are hot, hot, hot! This is the way the SS works right.

Triton, Anytime you turn on the S-7 Battle Short, you bypass most of the safety features on the gen set. So yes, you can force the K-1 output contactor to close. BUT, you also leave yourself in the position of destroying something. I once went to a unit that could not get a gen set, (MEP-006)...

Partner, You need to look at S-1 start switch, and see if its wired right, if it has the proper voltages, on the proper terminals, in the proper positions. Also look to see the all the jumpers are on the switch. Then check CR-4 diode, on the S-1. MAKE SURE ITS GOOD; and HOOKED UP IN THE...