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It is just a ground. Any cable wire would serve the same purpose. Hey glad to hear you have the old truck up and running again. It gives a good feeling when you go thru all that and have it back again. I went thru 4 sets of heads to find 1 good set. This time around I paid $650. to have them...

I don't know. I never used any thicker head gaskets. I have used head savers on forklift engines in the past. but I have not had favorable results. I opt to get another head in lieu of the head saver shim and gaskets. Never heard of a thicker head gasket for any 6.2. I don't know it all so...

Just remove the glow plugs. That will eliminate the compression issue. And use the 15/16" crank bolt and turn it clockwise.

Did you get the vacuum pump out yet? And when you put it back in you can just drop it in that hole anywhere. You will still need to turn so the diaphragm does not touch anything. And with it against the firewall or close it can make a strange sound. But turn the crankshaft and it will pull it...

Worse case scenario is you break it. But it needs to come out of there. If it fails when assembled. How will you get it out? See my point? Keep spraying it with PB blaster or something. I think it will come out. when you put it back in apply some never seize on the shaft that goes into the...

Hold the delivery nozzle with a 30mm wrench and use a 19mm wrench and turn the lines from the delivery nozzles. DO NOT cut them lines they are tuned to exact length and thickness. Put a vise grips on the shaft of the vacuum pump and get that sucker loose and out of there. Did you take the 1 M10...

Is this the one you need? And I would get that vacuum pump out of there now. If it were to go bad you would have to get it out with the entire engine assembled. Any progress to report? EGR is an emission system. These are exempt from emissions.

What pipes? The fuel injection lines will come out as an entire assembly with the fuel injection pump. You are now ready to removed the 2 nuts holding the oil fill tower in place. Hold the rear nut on the stud.( Another place a thin wrench comes in play.) Then pull the oil fill tower out of the...

Use a 3/4" line wrench and take the injection lines from the delivery nozzles. Then remove the injection line clamps at the intake. Allow the rubbers to stay on the injection lines. It helps to have a thin kerf 15 MM wrench a on some of the studs that have nuts on the upper threads. If you get...

Just take all the return lines off. They have little PITA squeeze clamps. May I recommend a new kit and new return lines and clamps? Keep the old ones for spares and replace them with new. A lot easier. The stop plugs are usually the worst to get off and back on.

I said yes to replacing the fuel delivery nozzles. I meant to say NO just remove them and replace the copper washers underneath them. I have only ever changed the nozzles on a few vehicles. Mostly at a customers request. I never replaced them just to replace them. I had them checked at a diesel...

I have bought Felpro's. I used GM sets in the past when they were available. Most of the head gaskets you buy are going to do the job. As long as they are for the proper application. 6.2 J code diesel. The J code may not matter but it is worth mentioning. It does matter for the intake gaskets. J...

My Advise Only. These are answered in order. 1.) Yes. They have new copper washers with the head gasket set. Replace them. They are not specific to any cylinder and just keep them in a clean dry place. 2.) My opinion. I have replaced mine on several CUCV's I use the Diesel Care specials. No...

WOW. The pictures posted. This is what several head gaskets I removed looked like. IMHO that is a weak wear out point. It was running fine for years and never over heated. It just pressurized the cooling system and blew the coolant into the over flow bottle. I just kept putting it back every...

On the same note. Do NOT just change 1 head gasket. Change both. I have seen guys change just 1 head gasket. IDK why. And getting the heads checked and re-done as needed is 99.9% of the job. Bolts are just easier and as effective. I stick by my old saying. Bolts lasted 30 years. And turning them...

Studs with engine out. But if you want to give the studs a try with the engine in do it. I have heard that it is difficult to get the head on the left side on the studs. I am going to say it again. Bolts worked for 30 years and I am not going to have the truck 30 more years so I choose bolts...

Not a real hard fix. I think that the thin metal ring in the head gasket just wears out with time. I never over heated mine it just went. It never over heated after it went. At this point most of the CUCV's should have the head gaskets changed just as part of the regular maintenance. I see them...

I drove one for 4-5 years with a bad head gasket. It would push the coolant over into the overflow and keep the coolant pressurized for days. The radiator hoses looked like inner tubes the next day. only in the winter did it become obvious that it was burning antifreeze and the left side looked...