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FWIW I swapped yokes and went to one of the u-bolt style ones that use a common Spicer u-bolt. 3 years of abuse and it has been great. Got mine from WFO. Was able to press the old shield off and reuse it on the new yoke.

You use a BIG breaker bar... and a good way to hold the yoke. Should also get a beam or dial type inch pound torque wrench for measuring preload. There are other ways to change the pinion seal, but a before and after with a dial type inch pound is best, especially if you are swapping parts...

So the caps are slipping in the yoke? Does the yoke still have the cast in tabs that retain the caps? The pinion preload on the 14 bolt is set with a crush sleeve, so if you do decide to replace the yoke read up on it before you start. The last thing you want to do is to attack the job with...

30mm/25.4=1.181"... only about six thousandths of an inch away from 1 3/16" A good thin wall 1 3/16" socket is good for a couple other uses. It is the right size for the pinion nut on the Dana 60 front (why it needs to be thin wall... not impact), and it is also correct for the pitman arm nut...

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-215/Dr.+Tranny+Assemblee+Goo Good RTV is also needed to use on the case.

One source for parts... https://transpartswarehouse.com/ It isn't a hard to rebuild a 208. The only tricky part is removing the back bearing for the front output shaft. The bearing is in a blind hole so you have to make or buy a puller to remove it. You can buy a bearing and seal kit from...