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Looks like the Pirate's opinion about those straps hasn't changed much since we used to cuss them over a cold beer (sometimes two) at the Little Sluice, back in the day.

Whatever happened to the perfectly functional, and superior in general, yokes with U-bolts?

So the original yoke didn't have the 1350 measurement? I still don't quite get this.

I can't see the tab for the cup in the second photo, so it's hard to tell what the real widths of those yokes are. And it would take an awful lot of abuse to tweak a yoke, even if banging it against rocks. Having a U-joint let go is the only way I can remember seeing a yoke get damaged. But it...

Huh? If I understand this correctly, you must've had the wrong size U-joint in the OE yoke. The attachments don't work, but when you say that the aftermarket straps "are not exactly formed yet to the new U-joint" it sounds like you still have a mismatch. I've never had an application where the...

Well, not quite. Just like with the engine, trans, and axles, there's a vent to allow for expansion and contraction of the fluids and air inside. Without those vents we'd be changing a lot ​of seals, and often.

Like cucvrs says, it's not easy to overfill the transfer case. Unless you're parked on a fairly steep downhill. If the timing for a real repair is bad, for now you could open the fill plug once a week or so, letting any excess out. Just don't forget to keep an eye on the transmission's fluid...

Oh, I had forgotten about those. Okay, I wanted to. It bugs me that manufacturers can't make receivers and ball mounts with decent tolerances, but in a driveshaft application that slop takes on a whole new meaning. Lots of affordable travel, though. Either way, it'd be easy enough to turn the...

That's brutal on the dial indicator, don't you think? And even on whoever is trying to read it while the 'shaft is spinning at speed.

Well, you can't really put a dial indicator on the driveshaft while the rear U-joint is flopping around. How about removing the driveshaft and check it for straightness before installing new U-joints?

My reason for suggesting forklift damage is that if a vehicle was bought at auction, all kinds of interesting damage can occur when lifted by a careless operator. Let's say that the rear driveshaft was slightly damaged (bent or dented). Then nobody thought to look the vehicle over and simply...

Forklift?

I hope you don't mean that the transfer case seals had anything to do with vibration. Except for ruining the mounts at the transfer case.

The easiest is probably to take a magnet to the case. 205s are not aluminum. Or, look at photos of the two and compare to what yours look like. 205s also came with skid plates, and have been filled with ATF, so those are not good methods for finding out/guessing which kind it is.

Glad to hear that. I think I'm allergic to adjustable wrenches. But maybe your good tool selection should be augmented with a pair of calipers - or at least a tape measure?

I sure hope that by then you have ditched the adjustable wrenches and will use the correct tools for the job.

Before driving anywhere, I hope you have checked the fluid level in the transmission and transfer case by now.

Thanks for the info guys. I didn't know that GM switched to ATF as early as '88, and had never heard of the "Shift on the fly" 205 until Rustystud mentioned it a while back. My ATF experience was after getting my first ever new car into the garage to look things over. First thing I do with any...

Check the dipstick and find out what's in the transmission, then the level plug on the transfer case to see what's in there?

Off the subject, but imagine my surprise when checking the fluid level in an NP205 and found it filled with ATF. It was in a '91 crew cab dually, and while I don't know when GM decided to switch to ATF - surely for mileage purposes - I filled it with normal gear oil. And it lived happily ever...