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The S1 in the first gen set appears to function. Just so you have something to do, take it out, and put it in Gen 2. Do not, trust how the wires have been attached to the switch. LOOK at each wire and check the wire number against the wire diagram. THEN attach them. Make sure the diode is...

Originally Posted by dav5 Guyfang I think I have read all your generator posts. With your help plus other contributors I am now fairly comfortable with the TM's. I now even know what the cage code is. The one thing I am still having trouble with is "usable on code". Specifically I am buying...

There are three different types. The first two types are not real reliable. You can find some of them in the big auction site, or several sites that offer parts for army equipment. Most offer S1's at a very high price. You can take the part numbers and NSNs and plug them into your browser. Lots...

I would say to you, that gen set #2 has a bad start switch. Lets work on one at a time. And gen set #2 is a good one to start with. With those readings, its clear, that you need a new switch, or its wired wrong. In an earlier post I gave you a snapshot of the switch, and wich wires go to which...

Like I said before. Version 1 of the S1 switch. The side of the switch you can see in the picture is the "common" side. The common side is: pins 2,4,6,8 all show the same value. In this case, 24Volts, DC. With the switch in any position other than OFF, these four screws should have 24 volts...

Here is a picture of the switch and the wire numbers

You have the first version. Measure on pins 3 and 7, while holding the switch in the start position. If you do not have 24 volts DC, then the switch is bad. Or miswired.

Place the S1 in the start position. Measure voltage at pin 3 & 7. Do you have 24 volts?