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There are little notches for the screw driver to fit into and pry. You'll barely lift the motor up, then put blocks under the head, then lower and separate by pulling the motor towards the radiator (but of course the radiator is gone now). Sometimes I have to use a bearing puller on the rear of...

The TM's (technical manuals) are subdivided and identified mostly by the last 2 digits of the manuals identification. Example: If someone says look at -24 they mean 9-6115-641-24. Each manual is for a specific purpose and if you see a manual with a P at the end, your looking at a manual that is...

If you want a long life out of the unit, you really need to rebuild. I'm so afraid when you break the pistons loose, you're going to have severe rust pitting. You can get the rust off and put it back together but you may only get a 1000 hours out of it before you burn up the crank bearings. If...

That's very common with no load. The engine doesn't get hot enough to burn all the fuel off so then the fuel sticks to all the carbon. Then it had all that carbon mixing with water that was getting in through the exhaust. I would get a few cans of carburetor cleaner and soak the cylinders down...

Your going to have to let it sit for at least a few days. I usually have to let them sit a couple of days in trans fluid and mystery oil. Then try to move it back and forth slowly. It will take about a week to get it free. These recommendations are also used if you pull the head. Don't even...

You won't know until it doesn't move. Trust me its left hand threads so if your standing in the front of the pulley bolt, turn it clockwise. I think they put on with 220lbs of torque so it's going to be tight.

He is a good guy. I bought one of the doors from his unit and it was a great transaction.

On the 802a I'm showing part number 186-6198.

Try Delks Army Navy. 1-336-629-0991. Ask to speak to William. Try to figure out if you need anything else so you can save on shipping.